The most common reason for this issue is that the broil element and the baking element remain functional. However, there may be a blown internal fuse. If it is not the fuse, it could be the temperature sensor, broken or frayed wiring, or even a breakdown of the oven control board.
If your lower oven is not turning on at all, but the upper oven is working fine, then a blown fuse is likely to be the culprit. A blown fuse will happen suddenly and is more likely if your oven has experienced a power surge or you've used a very high-temperature setting, like a self-cleaning setting.
In an electric range, the cause is either the thermostat/electronic range control or the bake (bottom) element or a broken wire. In a gas range, it is either the oven control or the ignitor or safety valve or a broken wire.
If the range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit may have its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usually located under the cooktop of the range.
Reset the Electronic Control
Turn the circuit breaker to the OFF position or remove the fuse. Wait one minute, then turn the circuit breaker back to the ON position or install the fuse to reset power to the appliance. This should reset the electronic controls on the Range or Wall Oven.
To replace your oven sensor, you'll pay between $100 and $250.
No oven has a Reset Button. If you want to reset the unit, you can turn the circuit breaker off for 5 minutes, and turn it back on. This can be enough to reset minor glitches most of the time. Otherwise, if you still encounter power outages or you lose power randomly, this may be a sign of a bad control board.
The possible reasons your oven is not working may include a broken baking or broiling element, a malfunctioning spark element (spark electrode), a broken igniter, a blown fuse, an issue with the control board, or outlets not providing enough power to the oven.
If the stove works fine, but the oven is not heating up, it means the baking and broil elements are functional, but you may have a blown internal fuse case. Our specialists confirm that there may be numerous other factors at play, and there are several potential solutions worth exploring: Check power outlet.
We recommend that you not use the oven if the bake or broil element fails. Failure of one or both oven elements will not affect the surface burners. You may continue using these burners as needed.
If your oven isn't heating up, it may be because the igniter or heating element is damaged or isn't working properly. Make sure to inspect the temperature sensor for any visible damage and the gas line for any leaks or defects, as an unobstructed gas supply is essential for your oven to heat up effectively.
An oven that isn't heating properly may have a damaged heating element that needs to be repaired or replaced. If your oven has any exposed bake or broil elements, check for visible breaks or blisters. You can also visually check to make sure all oven elements are turning on.
While the location varies between models, the hot surface igniter is usually found near the oven burners, you may need to remove the bottom panel in order to access it.
If the fuse is blown, the metal link under the glass surface is going to be blackened and broken. If you can't see this, then a multimeter can be used to test if the fuse is still working. The meter can be set to the continuity test and place the leads on the fuse's base and metal tip.
The most common reasons your oven display is not working are a defective electronic control board, defective control panel or a dead power supply.
If you're fumbling with the controls on your oven and it's not responding, you likely have an electrical problem. Additionally, if you notice power fluctuations, it's also an indication that something is wrong. Corrosion, shorted-out wiring, or even high currents can be to blame.
The ovens are an insulated metal cavity. As long as it heats today (meaning enough heat didn't get out to trip the high limit thermostat) it's perfectly fine and wouldn't hurt anything at all.
Make sure the multimeter is calibrated and then turn the dial to the lowest ohm rating. Place the multimeter on the thermostat. If the thermostat has a reading of zero or as close to zero as possible, it is working fine. However, if it has no reading at all, your oven thermostat is faulty and will need replacing.
Consider the 50% Rule—If the cost of repairs is more than half the value of the oven, it's usually better to replace it. Additionally, if the oven no longer meets your household's cooking needs, it likely warrants a replacement.
Locate the thermostat and disconnect the wires to remove thermostat. Remove the screws holding the thermostat in place and gently pull it out. Install the new thermostat: Position the new thermostat in the same place where the old one was.