If your dryer is running but not heating, the most common culprits are a blown thermal fuse, a broken heating element, or a tripped circuit breaker. Insufficient 240-volt power, a faulty thermostat, or severely clogged vents restricting airflow can also cause the heat to stop working.
The cost of replacing a dryer sensor or thermistor varies based on the model and brand, but typically ranges from $10 to $30 for the part itself.
Indicators of a broken heating element include:
A thermal fuse is a safety device designed to melt and break the circuit if an appliance (like a dryer or oven) overheats. The most reliable way to tell if it is blown is by testing for continuity using a multimeter.
When your GE dryer runs but doesn't produce heat, the most common culprits are a burnt-out heating element, a melted or disconnected wire, a blown thermal fuse, or restricted airflow.
To reset a GE dryer that is not heating, unplug it or flip the circuit breaker off for 5 minutes to clear electronic faults. If it still won’t heat, check the home's breaker panel for a partially tripped fuse and ensure the dryer is set to a heated cycle.
Replacing a GE dryer heating element typically costs between $𝟏𝟓𝟎 and $𝟑𝟓𝟎 in total. This includes $$35 to $𝟐𝟎𝟎 for the replacement part, depending on the model, and about $𝟏𝟎𝟎 to $𝟏𝟓𝟎 in labor if you hire a local appliance repair technician.
In most cases, you cannot reset a dryer thermal fuse; it is a single-use safety device and must be replaced if it blows. However, some gas dryers feature a high-limit thermostat with a physical reset button.
In most appliances like clothes dryers, a thermal fuse is located near the exhaust vent, heating element, or blower housing. It is a small, usually white or clear plastic safety device with two attached wires.
Age of the Dryer
Age is one of the strongest indicators when deciding between repair and replacement: Under 8 years old: Repairs are usually worthwhile. 8–12 years old: It depends on the repair cost and symptoms. Over 12 years old: Replacement may be more cost-effective (especially after a major failure).
The most common cause of a dryer running but not heating is a blown thermal fuse, typically triggered by restricted airflow or a clogged vent. Other frequent culprits include a broken heating element, a faulty cycling thermostat, or a tripped double-pole circuit breaker.
Yes, replacing a dryer heating element is almost always worth it, especially if you can handle the DIY repair. A new heating element part typically costs between $30 and $50, compared to $500 or more for a new machine. Even if you hire a professional, the $100 to $350 total repair cost is generally far cheaper than buying a replacement dryer.
That said, if your clothes dryer is more than halfway through its lifespan—7 years or more—and the repair costs more than 50% of the price of a new one, you should consider replacing it. But if fixing it is less than half the cost of buying something new, a repair is probably the better option.
A dryer typically lasts about 12-13 years; however, some dryer manufacturers boast up to a 25-year lifespan. It's important to remember, though, that clothes dryer life expectancy goes hand in hand with how often the dryer is used and how well you maintain the appliance.
A bad or "blown" thermal fuse will typically cause your dryer to either not start at all or run without producing any heat. You can confirm if the fuse is defective by testing it for continuity using a multimeter.
The thermal fuse is a vitally important part of your appliance, but it's also a surprisingly easy component to replace. With the right replacement part, a screwdriver and a few minutes, you'll have your oven working again, and we'll walk you through it!
Replacing a dryer thermal fuse costs between $𝟕𝟓 and $𝟏𝟓𝟎 on average if you hire a professional, or $𝟓 to $𝟐𝟎 if you buy the part and do it yourself.
Signs of a blown thermal fuse
Some of the most common symptoms include: Dryer won't start at all. If the fuse is wired to cut power to the motor, you'll see a total shutdown.
Many modern dryers do not have a physical reset button. Instead, you "reset" them by unplugging the unit (or flipping the circuit breaker) for 5 to 10 minutes to clear the control board. If you have a dedicated reset button, it is usually located either on the main control panel, on the back of the dryer, or next to the thermal fuse (which often requires removing the back or side panel).
Most clothes dryers have one primary thermal fuse designed to cut power if the unit overheats, acting as a one-time safety device that must be replaced if it blows. However, some electric models may have additional thermal cutoffs or high-limit thermostats near the heating element that serve similar safety functions.
For small fixes, such as replacing a thermal fuse or drive belt, DIY repairs can save you money and time. However, if the repair cost exceeds 25% of the dryer's original price, it's often more practical to invest in a new model, especially if your dryer has been around for a while.
To confirm if your dryer's heating element is bad, listen for a multimeter continuity beep or look for a visible break in the heating coils. A bad element is the most common reason a dryer tumbles but fails to produce heat.
The dryer motor is typically the most expensive part to replace, costing between $100 and $500 for parts and labor.