Maple is hard and dense, so the relatively large pigment particles can not penetrate the wood very well. They even highlight the sanding scratches. Try some dyes instead, like TransTint, a concentrated dye that you mix with water.
Maple can be hard to stain, depending on the ``stain''. Maple has little bitty pores and is a ``denser'' wood, so absorbtion is not as good, and since the pores are so small, less pigment (if using a pigment stain) will color the wood. Now, on the other hand, Maple is not hard to ``color''.
Maple does MUCH better with DARKER stains (can't see blotches if the colour is so dark you can't tell what wood is underneath). Lighter stains can work. There are some refinishers who can get maple to work with a MIDTONE stain. A LIGHT GRAY (ie. almost lighter than the wood itself) is going to be tough.
Unlike porous woods such as oak, maple's surface does not readily absorb stain. The tight grain results in fewer open pores for the stain to penetrate, leading to uneven absorption. This can cause a blotchy appearance, with some areas absorbing more stain than others, creating an inconsistent color.
Blotching is caused by uneven density in the wood. It is not caused by a particular stain or dye. Softwoods are more prone to this, but some hardwoods such as cherry and maple will also develop these areas of seemingly random density.
To get an even, uniform color when staining hard maple, apply the wood conditioner with a paintbrush or seal the grain with a thin coat of sanding sealer before staining. After application, scuff with 320-grit sandpaper, then stain as though the wood were unsealed.
Unlike oak and ash, the grain pattern of maple is uneven, causing it to absorb stains in varying degrees. To reduce any blotchiness, first apply a coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner.
Maple, by its density and grain structure, does not like to "take" stain the way oak soaks it up. An oil-based wiping stain just isn't the right product for you to use -- given your goals.
Light-colored wood, such as maple, will naturally darken due to exposure to UV light and oxygen. As the years pass, even a white maple piece will develop a honey-gold patina.
Hardwoods such as maple and oak: start with #120 and finish-sand no finer than #180 (for water base stains) and #150 grit for oil base stains. Do not over sand or you may seal the wood so much that it will not take a finish.
We do not recommend pre-sealing Maple with a conditioner because it closes up the grain of the wood even more, further preventing color adherence. In the future, just use our water-based stains or gel stains on their own. Do not use liquid oil-based stains on Maple because they will blotch.
Use Dewaxed Shellac for Your Best “Clear” Finish On Curly Maple. Of all the basic clear topcoats you can choose from, dewaxed shellac provides a surprising chatoyance that you just don't get with other finishes.
Is it necessary to sand maple wood before staining, and what grit sandpaper should be used? Absolutely. Sanding the wood before applying a stain helps open the pores and improve absorption. For the best results, you'll want to start with 220-grit sandpaper and sand down the end grain with 300+ grit.
Use a Wood Dye for an Even Stain
Because maple has such a tight grain, pigment type stains don't soak into the wood, except where there is a spot with more open grain. Try using dyes like TransTint or Transfast. Brands marketed as aniline dyes also provide great options for your maple doors.
FROM GF UNIVERSITY: HOW TO ACHIEVE A DARK, EVEN STAIN COLOR ON MAPLE. Please SHARE with your painting friends. Maple is a notoriously difficult wood to stain, as it tends to absorb stain unevenly, especially with dark colors.
So all maple wood – whether it comes from sugar maple, red maple, or silver maple trees – is considered a hardwood. That said, wood sold as “hard maple” is harder and more dense than soft maple wood.
Maple is white to yellow in color, sometimes with darker grey or brown streaks. Furniture makers typically use hard maple wood, Acer saccharum, which is also known as Rock Maple, Hard Rock Maple or Sugar Maple when in tree form. Yes, the same maple trees used for lumber also produce the sap that makes maple syrup!
However, the most striking rich dark red hue that many people love will take about six months to a year to fully develop. Maple: Maple starts with a light and bright brown color featuring gray and pink tones. With age and exposure to light and oxygen, it will take on a golden honey color, giving off a warm appearance.
Staining is not always advisable, but it can solve a lot of problems. Before you stain any piece of furniture, take a good look at it. If it's made of cherry, maple, mahogany, rosewood, aged pine, or any of the rare woods, the wood should probably not be stained; these woods look best in their natural color.
Generally speaking, oak tends to be slightly more expensive than maple due to its higher demand in various industries. Both woods, however, are considered affordable options for homeowners looking to upgrade their space with high-quality materials.
Each species of hardwood possesses unique grain and cell structures, which affect the results of the coloring or staining process. Tight grain wood, such as hard and soft maple, and cherry, will often become blotchy when stain is applied.
Can maple wood be stained dark? The answer is yes, but it's tricky. Compared to other kinds of wood, maple resists taking an even, consistent stain. That makes it hard to stain successfully, particularly when you're trying to achieve a darker tone.
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner can be applied over any wood, but especially necessary when working with soft or porous woods such as pine, fir, alder, aspen, birch and maple.