Neither is universally "better." The choice depends entirely on your project's location and moisture management needs.
Faced or unfaced insulation in basement walls is a common question we get. Use faced insulation in basement walls when insulating between studs, with the facing toward the interior. However, if you're adding insulation over existing insulation, choose unfaced to avoid creating a double vapor barrier.
The healthiest, non-toxic insulation for your home is natural sheep's wool or hemp insulation. These materials contain no chemical binders or formaldehyde, actively regulate indoor humidity to prevent mold, and do not off-gas.
Yes, faced or unfaced insulation matters significantly depending on your climate, local building codes, and the specific location you are insulating. The facing acts as a vapor barrier (or retarder) to prevent moisture from condensing inside your walls.
The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches, depending on insulation type.
Batt Insulation:
Also, when laying down additional insulation, work from the perimeter toward the attic opening. Never lay insulation over recessed light fixtures or soffit vents. Keep all insulation at least 3 inches away from recessed "can" lights, unless they are rated IC (Insulated Ceiling).
Yes, R-38 is technically better than R-30 because a higher R-value means greater resistance to heat flow. However, the "better" choice depends on your climate, space constraints, and local building codes, as R-38 requires more thickness and cost.
In most cases, you do not need to remove old insulation before adding new insulation. Laying new batting or blown-in insulation directly over existing material is often the most cost-effective way to boost your attic's energy efficiency, provided the old insulation is in good condition.
Mice are curious and always searching for safe, snug, and warm nesting sites. Attics filled with blown-in insulation provide an excellent option–from the mice's point of view. As long as there is a ready food source. Mice are omnivorous and will eat and chew on almost anything including wood and electrical wires.
Insulating a 2,000 sq. ft. attic costs between $2,000 and $9,000, with most homeowners paying around $3,600 to $5,800 for professional installation. The wide price range depends on the type of insulation, labor rates, and whether old insulation requires removal.
Closed cell spray foam is rigid once set. It is a better thermal insulator and was previously sold to stabilise failing roofs. But if it has been used inappropriately or installed poorly, it might put stress on timbers, restrict air circulation and put them at risk of decaying.
The Environmental Protection Agency banned spray-on asbestos insulation in 1973, certain types of pipe and block insulation in 1975 and new asbestos insulation products in 1989. In 2024, the EPA banned most uses of chrysotile asbestos products, including imports.
Yes, mice can chew through rockwool. While the dense, spun-stone fibers are not edible and are much harder to burrow into than soft fiberglass, a determined mouse will chew through rockwool to build nests or create pathways through walls.
What time of year is Insulation cheapest?
No. Kraft-faced insulation / fiberglass batts, you have a built in vapor barrier.
Foam insulation is a common target because it's easy for them to chew through. The material offers little resistance, allowing mice to create tunnels or nests within the insulation. But mice aren't just interested in chewing for the sake of it—they're also drawn to the warmth and shelter insulation provides.
The Amish control mice through non-chemical, self-sustaining methods, relying on active trapping, natural scent repellents, and structural exclusion. Rather than using commercial poisons, they focus on physical barriers and natural predators to keep rodent populations in check.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
Closed-cell spray foam and rigid foam board are hard, unattractive to rodents, and double as air barriers. Mineral wool is dense enough to discourage nesting. Fiberglass batts, especially in crawl spaces and attics, are essentially an open invitation.
Cellulose Insulation
The typical lifespan is 20 to 30 years, with degradation beginning as early as 15 years after installation. As with other types of insulation, severe weather or outside interference can reduce the lifespan.
The 7 and 7 rule for attic conversions refers to the common requirement that finished attics be at least 7 feet wide and 70 square feet, with 7-foot ceilings over at least half. Keep in mind that this is a general guideline. Local building codes may have stricter requirements that supersede this rule.
We use a product called DSV for this important step. DSV is a Disinfectant, Sanitizer, and Virucide. When sprayed or fogged in your attic, it kills the odors left behind from the urine, feces, and afterbirth of rats, mice, squirrels, and bats.
R-30 insulation typically requires a thickness of 8.5 to 10 inches, depending on the type of material you use. Because the thickness needed to achieve this thermal resistance varies by material, checking the exact product specs before buying is highly recommended.
When balancing upfront cost and overall thermal efficiency, the cheapest and most effective standard insulation is fiberglass batt insulation. However, if you are looking for long-term savings through superior air sealing, dense-pack cellulose often provides the best overall value.
Potential problems with spray foam insulation
reduce air circulation and ventilation within a roof space. lead to dampness and condensation on the underside of a roof because it forms an air barrier and stops moisture from escaping. place timber-framed roofs at risk of decay.