We recommend having the following tools to hand if you want to install your new wooden floor: a hammer, saw, pencil, knife, bevel tool, tape measure, an installation kit consisting of a crowbar, spacers and a tapping block, a suitable underlay or parquet glue. And a good saw, of course.
In fact, factory-finished floors can be installed straight out of the box. Because of these types of advancements, it is easier than ever to install a hardwood floor yourself. Obviously, hiring a professional to install your floors will take a lot less time than doing it on your own.
To protect your new hardwood floor from this kind of moisture, an underlayment is usually highly recommended. While not all underlayments are equipped with a vapor or moisture barriers, the best ones are. It will protect your hardwood floor from moisture penetrating inside and potentially ruin them.
Start by butting the first row of boards (groove side) up to the backer board and begin nailing. Proceed with the installation until there is insufficient room to use the floor nailer. Next, remove the backer board. Glue the groove then insert a spline and fasten the piece with the floor nailer.
The recommended expansion gap for the engineered wood floor is 8mm (5/16 in). For hardwood or bamboo, leave a gap between 10 to 15 mm (3/8 to 5/8 in).
The 8D or 8-penny size finishing nail is common for the job of flooring. Predrilling nail holes avoids split boards. Additionally, a nail-set tool lets you tap the nail head into the board without the risk of denting it with the hammer.
Begin by selecting a long board to start the first row. Pick one that is straight. Align the edge of the board with the chalk line and drill pilot holes down through the hardwood plank and into the sub-floor and joist. Face-nail each board at the point of every joist and set the nail with a nail-set.
Removing a Subfloor
A circular saw and pry bar are typically the tools of choice, and the contractor will remove all damaged materials. A drill may also be used if any screws are found along the way.
The alternative to using a pull bar is to modify the groove side of the plank that's on the floor. Shave the groove and remove the debris, making sure that there's none in the track. Next, take a small bead of glue and run it down the groove side of your plank.
Solid hardwood floors must be fixed into position by either gluing or nailing down to the subfloor. Engineered hardwood floors can be glued or nailed into position, but they also have the option of being floated over an underlay.
Typically, installation of hardwood floor takes anywhere from 1 to 3 days. The average job size ranges from 1000 to 5000 square feet. A two-person team of installers is typically able to complete 750 to 1000 square feet of flooring each day.
A staple will give a stronger, less-forgiving hold because of its two-pronged construction. Nails allow for a more natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood floorboards with fewer problems.
The groove of the plank should face the wall and the tongue should face outward. This makes the tongue accessible for nailing, but not the groove.
Finish Nailer
If you're handy with a finish nail gun, you can use it to install a hardwood floor. A finish nail gun, designed for trim work, shoots a near-headless nail that does not mar the surface look of the wood, which makes a finish nailer effective for installing hardwood floors as well.
Installing hardwood flooring averages between $6 and $12 per square foot. On average, wood flooring costs between $3 and $7 per square foot for materials and $3 to $5 per square foot for labor. An estimate for installation of 1000 square feet of hardwood flooring runs between $6,000 and $12,000.
We usually recommend leaving 3/8" to 1/2" space, more space may be recommended or required for larger rooms or if wide boards are being installed.
Once you have decided to use the glue down floor method, make sure that you leave a large enough expansion gap, depending on the hardwood product you chose, from the wall to allow the wood to contract and expand.
Whenever you are placing wood flooring in a hallway or any long and narrow area, it should run in the direction away from the doorway.
Wood floors should always be laid perpendicular to floor joists—across rather that in between them. This will make the floors structurally sound and will help prevent the planks from separating, sagging or buckling. So, there is no right or wrong way to lay your wood flooring.
Underlayment is the layer of material that sits between the subfloor and the new hardwood flooring. Subflooring is a layer of plywood or engineered wood that sits at the very bottom layer of the flooring.
If the subfloor in your home or property is uneven, then your laminate floor could move and shift if it doesn't have an underlayment for support. As a result, the floor will be more prone to wear-and-tear and could even warp. The more stability, the less likely you'll have to pay out of pocket for costly repairs.