Most trees should be pruned during the late dormant season (February through March). February through March is generally regarded as the best time to prune most deciduous trees.
According to Ramsey County Master Gardener Volunteers, February is the best time to prune your trees. In February, harmful tree diseases are at a minimum and deciduous trees have already “hardened off”, meaning they have prepared for winter dormancy.
As a general rule, prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they flower. Prune trees that bloom in the summer or fall in late winter or early spring before the end of their dormancy. Routine pruning of dead or dying branches can be done at any time.
The best time to prune most trees and shrubs is March or early April, which are the late winter to early spring months.
Pruning Too Early
If you prune too early in the season, there's a good chance you'll snip the buds right off their branches, which means no flowers in the spring. Before you cut, do a little research, like with our pruning guide, or just wait to trim until the plant has finished blooming for the year.
Late summer or early fall pruning causes vigorous re-growth of tissue, which in some cases may not harden off by the time winter arrives, leading to possible cold damage to the new growth.
Pruning less of the plant but more frequently is by far the best for the overall health of it. We recommend every other month, which comes out to be five times per year. This is the sweet spot for pruning and will help keep everything looking and performing its best.
February through March is generally regarded as the best time to prune most deciduous trees. The absence of foliage at this time of year gives the individual a clear view of the tree and allows the selection and removal of appropriate branches.
Many summer or late-summer flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between January and March. Examples include Buddleja davidii, Caryopteris clandonensis, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Leycesteria, Lavatera, Perovskia, hardy fuchsia, and deciduous Ceanothus species.
You can safely remove some dead, damaged, overgrown, or dying branches in early spring – late March through early April – as long as you don't remove too many tree branches.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
Don't prune spring-blooming shrubs (lilac, forsythia, weigela, mock orange) until after flowers fade. With red- and yellow-twig dogwoods, you'll keep plants at their most colorful if you remove a few stems each year, cutting to ground level. Maintain these shrubs so they never have stems more than three years old.
Pruning during the growing season always stimulates new growth. During summer's heat, having to produce that ill-timed new flush of growth greatly stresses a tree. Pruning in the fall is even worse as it prevents the tree from going into a natural dormancy. The exception is heavily damaged, disease or dead wood.
Don't cut off leaf and flower buds.
For example, rhododendrons and conifers are best pruned in late summer before they set buds for the next year. You'll face a similar lack of blossoms if you prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs in late winter or early spring.
Don't prune your forsythia, lilac or mock orange yet. Anything you cut off now will result in that much less of a flower show this spring. Except for these and many other spring-flowering shrubs, however, March is a fine time for pruning many trees and shrubs.
When and why: Prune in early to late spring, once lighter-colored new growth appears, which gives time for cuts to heal and new buds to form. Use thinning cuts back to the main stem to tame overgrown shrubs; for heading cuts, prune back to a branch that has needles or leaves on it so new growth can sprout.
Pruning in spring makes way for more growth and helps to encourage more flowers, foliage and colourful stems on a wide range of plants. Some spring-flowering shrubs flower on old branches and if left unpruned will turn into a jumbled mess, with new growth made only at the top of the shrub.
Did you know that if you prune too late in the season, you stimulate new growth, which will not have time to harden off before the first frost, which will be coming soon to our neck of the woods. This can weaken and damage the plant, so its best to leave the pruning until spring.
Plants that bloom on old wood (last year's growth) are pruned after flowering so as not to remove flower buds with a winter pruning. Hedges also require additional shaping in early summer, and fruits need a little training.
Overgrown trees can pose a serious risk to your property and your family. Dead or damaged branches can fall and cause damage to your home or car or even injure someone. In addition, overgrown trees can block sunlight and views and can even damage foundations or driveways.
Choose the Right Time
Likewise, prune in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the newly cut ends of branches becoming scorched by the hot sun. Wait 48 hours after rain to prune, to allow plants to dry out and avoid fungal diseases. When pruning, make cuts just above leaf nodes, or buds.
Over pruning reduces the foliage needed to make food for the tree, so in effect, it starves it. When a tree has been over pruned, you may not see much new growth during the spring. In the winter, more branches than usual will break as a result of heavy loads.