You can install a swale or French drain, which channels the water away from the site to an area where it won't cause problems. You can divert water to another spot on your property but not to the neighbor's yard, so if you can't shift the water to a good location, you'll have to run a French drain to a dry well.
Without proper drainage, paving stones are open to damage from the elements, especially water. Standing water weakens pavers, leading to chips, cracks, and even erosion. During colder weather, water that gets into these cracks and crevices can freeze, causing cracks to expand and worsen.
Concrete/plastic drainage channels
Sometimes called “linear channels”, these patio drainage systems involve moulding a piece of plastic guttering in a strip of freshly-laid concrete. They're relatively cost-effective and are far speedier to install than traditional underground drainage systems.
Patios must have a slight slope (1" for every 4' to 8') for proper drainage.
Run your channel at right-angles to the fall of the paving with a fall of 1 in 80. Use a 1 metre-long straightedge and shim of 12.5mm to do this. Dig a depth of 100mm along the edge of your patio and fill it in with concrete. Put the first section of channel on the concrete.
Pavers are permeable and are laid with small spaces in between them. These features allow water to run through them and back into the ground below instead of sitting on top, like it would with asphalt or concrete.
Concrete sand, also known as bedding sand, is coarse and doesn't trap excess moisture beneath the paver surface. This allows pavers to drain after a heavy rain and maintain their structural integrity over time.
There are two types of drainage, including surface and subsurface pavement drainage. While subsurface drainage deals with systems under the terrain, surface drainage tackles the issues at the top and those that impact the surrounding ground. This is the type of drainage you see normally on a daily basis.
An influx of water that sits for a long period of time can damage your paver surfaces by weakening the cracks or chips already present. If your pavers are already loose, they may collapse. Flooding can also lead to erosion when soil and rock are transported and deposited into the area.
Initially, some water will seep into the joint sand for the first few weeks but soon silts and dust in the air will fill any voids and water will then shed off the paver surface just like any other pavement.
A GRAVEL BASE LAYER BEFORE SAND IS A MUST! Using sand alone to set pavers is not enough. The best and recommended paver base is 3/8-inch crushed gravel. The gravel provides a flexible base that absorbs ground tension to prevent frost heaves.
Pavers should be flush with the ground for a smooth look and feel.
You will also need to incorporate some method of drainage, to make sure rainwater doesn't accumulate on the patio or around your foundation. Water sitting against the house will eventually seep in, leading to damp crawl spaces, a leaky basement, and a damaged foundation.
Paver Drain A/T is a dual-elevation deck drain system with an Aluminum top cap used for the installation of paver decks. This unique design features a top cap that can be lapped past the joints for rigidity as well as a tray built into the base to set the pavers on.
The amount of sand you use can make or break your paver installation, so it's best that you use no more than the recommended 1 inch. Here's why: A sand layer that is too thick can create waves in your patio during the installation. Pressing pavers into a thick sand bed may result in misalignment and a messy look.
Believe it or not, properly installed pavers are more structurally sound than concrete, and they can withstand much more weight and wear than blacktop. The traditional base for a paver patio is 4–6” of compacted gravel above your dirt.
Is Sand or Gravel Better For Drainage? Gravel drains water faster and better than sand. This is because gravel has larger particles than sand. As seen above, efficient drainage works better in soils with large particles.
Compacting causes the stones to form a tight bond with the bedding layer, which reduces the chance of your pavers sinking again. Sweep joint sand into the joints between the pavers. Do this by pouring a pile of sand on your hardscape and sweep it over the stones until your joints can't hold any more sand.
If you're looking for a quick patio installation, you may be happier with dry-laid stone. But if you want a more permanent look and are willing to spare no expense for your patio, wet-laid stone may be the best choice. Whichever type of construction you choose, it's crucial to lay a solid foundation.
Sealing your pavers can help prevent this fading, which can help maintain the overall aesthetic of your outdoor space. Decreased Drying Time: Properly sealed pavers do not allow water to absorb inside them. This significantly reduces drain time.
You can install a swale or French drain, which channels the water away from the site to an area where it won't cause problems. You can divert water to another spot on your property but not to the neighbor's yard, so if you can't shift the water to a good location, you'll have to run a French drain to a dry well.
Some patio drainage problems can be solved by drilling small holes (about 3cm in diameter) in the existing surface and filling them with gravel. The holes will allow for the drainage of some excess water to solve the problem of standing water.
Dig a Trench
The trench should be about 18 inches deep and 9 to 12 inches wide. French drains need to have a slope of at least 1 percent, so the force of gravity will work for you. This means that the drain should slope down a total of at least one inch for every 10 feet of pipe.