Always follow the wood flooring and adhesive manufacturer recommendations for substrate requirements, substrate preparation, moisture testing and limitation requirement, and application specifics. 1. The concrete slab must be flat. Tolerances are 1/8” within a 6' radius, or 3/16” within a 10' radius.
HORIZONTAL / FLAT – Maximum tolerance of 5mm over 3 meter, or 3mm over 2 meter. Sand high areas or joints. If the floor is glued, fill the low areas with a latex additive cement surfacing product with a minimum resistance to compression of 20 000 kPa.
Ambient temperature and humidity along with subfloor moisture content must be in synch with the moisture content of the wood. Flatness required as follows- 3/16" in 10' or 1/8" in 6'. Floating floors requirements are more stringent, see section 4.4 for more details. Sand high areas and joints.
Part I: Concrete Subfloor Specifications
Subfloor must be flat. Make sure the concrete slab is flat to the wood flooring manufacturer's specification. Typically, manufacturers will specify a flatness tolerance of 1/8”in a 6-foot radius and or 3/16” in a 10-foot radius.
Generally speaking, gaps in a wood floor are normal for boards up to 2¼ inches wide if the gaps close during more humid times of the year. Normal gaps can vary in width, ranging from hairline gaps to the thickness of a quarter.
Most of the time the expansion gap will be hidden beneath a skirting board or beading so it is recommended that a 15mm expansion is left. There are some circumstances where it would be preferable to have less of a gap than 15mm, but we recommended consulting with us first.
Yes, and it's especially important when the engineered hardwood is installed with the floating floor technique.
Just like ceramic tile, wood and resilient flooring require a high degree of flatness that can easily be achieved using a cementitious SLu. Many manufacturers of wood flooring require that the variation in floor flatness be no more than 3/16" in 10' and 1/8" in 6'.
If you've decided to install engineered hardwoods, there are four possible installation methods depending on the subfloor: glue, nail, staple and float. Whichever method you choose, you'll need to prep the subfloor by cleaning, leveling, and checking and adjusting door clearance.
Use the proper leveling compounds to provide a flat surface – subfloors should be 3/16” in 10' or 1/8”: in 6' – the use of a 6' level can help to determine the flatness of the subfloor. square footage – for areas less than 2500 sq. ft – minimum expansion space is ¼” areas larger than 2500 sq.
Particle board is made from wood chips, sawdust and resin and is one of the older materials used for subfloors. It's best for engineered hardwood floors, carpet, or luxury vinyl as it doesn't hold nails or staples.
The Standard simply defines the required flatness of a concrete subfloor. The subfloor, or 'underfloor' as I like to call it, “shall not deviate more than 3/16 of an inch in ten feet.” Photo 1 shows a ten straight edge being used to gauge the undulation of the floor.
If the floor simply tilts, most hardwoods (especially engineered hardwoods) will be able to be installed quite easily.
So, what's the ballpark lifespan of engineered hardwood flooring? On average, you can expect engineered hardwood floors to last between 20 and 30 years.
Once you are happy that the room is dry and the flooring can be acclimatised you will need to open the boxes to allow the boards to breath. It is best if you can completely open the boxes and lay the boards out. It is recommended that you allow the boards to acclimatise for a minimum of 48-72 hours.
Joists are available in several depths and lengths and superior strength allows them to span up to 30 feet (TRIFORCE span tables).
Most flooring installed with the floating method can be installed over your existing flooring if it meets the following criteria: The existing flooring is securely fastened to the subfloor. The subfloor is in suitable shape. Raising the floor height will not cause a tripping hazard in doorways to and from other rooms.
Either solid wood flooring or engineered wood flooring can be laid directly onto joists if the planks are at least 18mm thick. It is also advised that long length boards (6ft or 1.83m) are used.
Because wood tends to contract and expand as temperature and moisture change, flooring without an expansion gap will become less stable and durable. This is why it is very important to leave an expansion gap when installing engineered wood flooring.
Put a mark on the board at the 3 feet point. Now, measure the adjacent board from the same corner to 4 feet and put a mark there. Then, measure the distance between the two marks. If it is 5 feet, then you have a perfectly square corner.
No subfloor is perfectly level, but any signs of unevenness and high or low spots must be remedied. Please follow these requirements: Subfloor unevenness cannot be greater than 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span or 1/8 inch over a 6-foot span.
Tolerances are 1/8” within a 6' radius, or 3/16” within a 10' radius.
Most experts agree that the maximum tolerance for a subfloor is 3/16” over a ten-foot span. Any dips or mounds exceeding this measurement need to be addressed before installation.
The choice between floating and glue-down installation for an engineered wood floor depends on various factors such as subfloor type, room dimensions, and personal preference. Floating installation offers easier DIY and allows for expansion, while glue-down provides a firmer feel and minimizes movement.
When installing hardwood or engineered wood flooring, the best underlay options are cork and foam. However, foam does have more give than cork so, while it is the more popular option, we recommend cork. Cork has less give, making it less likely to flex underneath your planks.