Apply oil-based stains with a paintbrush or clean rag. Apply water-based stains with a foam brush or synthetic bristle brush. For deep grain woods, work the stain into the grain by working in a circular motion. Otherwise, apply the stain evenly in the direction of the wood grain.
The best way to apply stain is with a lint free rag and wiping it into the grain of the wood. Using a lint free rag is the best way to apply wood stain because it is great for controlling the amount of stain that is applied and for removing any excess stain.
Brushing is the slowest method of applying stain. So not only might you get blotching or lap marks, you're also wasting time. It's more efficient to wipe stain than to brush it, and you're less likely to have color problems.
Brushing is more suitable for smaller areas and intricate spots, ensuring a smoother finish. Rolling is best suited for covering larger decks and flat surfaces, although improper technique can result in a rough texture. You have picked out the stain applicator and the stain, tested it, and checked the conditions.
With a staining brush, work both with the grain and against it. Don't worry about being neat; all that matters is getting a nice, even, liberal coat over the wood. Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off.
Do You Have to Sand Before Staining Wood? Wood needs to be sanded well before it can be stained. The process opens up the wood's pores to better absorb the stain. It also smoothes away scratches in the surface which will only be enhanced by stain.
Remove the last of any unabsorbed stain with a dry cloth, wiping in the direction of the wood grain. Swirl marks left by a stain-saturated cloth will become even more obvious under a coat of clear finish. When staining vertical surfaces, such as unfinished paneling or doors, try Minwax® Gel Stain.
In our tests, we found that the fastest way to apply the stain evenly and quickly was to roll it on with a standard, 9″ roller with a 3/8″ nap and then back-brush it using a Wooster Bravo Stain Brush. If you're going to use this application method (and it's the best!), make sure you pick up 1 or 2 extension poles.
When using a roller or airless sprayer, ALWAYS back brush the stain to really work it into the wood grain. Spraying is a great application (just be extremely cautious of overspray), but the magic is in back brushing it into the wood.
A smaller white China bristle brush, or any other natural brush for oil-based stains, works perfectly for cutting edges and other tight spaces. Note: If applying a water-based or hybrid stain, make sure you use synthetic bristle brushes for the best result.
Staining Wet-on-wet:
This prevents creating two layers of paint as well as different color at the overlap and at the same time helps you avoid unattractive lap marks. You can also work slowly and remove the paintbrush from the wooden deck gradually at the time when it runs out of stain.
Gel stain will be fine. Regular Minwax stains can cause finish problems down the road if left without wiping. Amount of stain left on the project is going to be the biggest factor. If you can still see through it and it dries with a day or so it will probably be OK.
If you have oil-based stains (which dries slower), brushing or spraying large areas could work, but lacquer and water-based stains simply dry too fast. This could result in imprints of the bristles on your wood surface. You won't have that problem when you apply and finish staining with lint-free cloth wipers.
Two coats are required to achieve the target color. However, a third coat can be applied to deepen the color if desired. Is a protective sealer/topcoat required after staining? No, this is a two in one product that already provides clear topcoat protection.
Apply oil-based stains with a paintbrush or clean rag. Apply water-based stains with a foam brush or synthetic bristle brush. For deep grain woods, work the stain into the grain by working in a circular motion. Otherwise, apply the stain evenly in the direction of the wood grain.
Brushing allows for more control and precision, while rolling is faster for larger surface areas.
After completing the first coat, let the stain dry for roughly 5 minutes. Use a clean rag to wipe off any excess stain and continue to let the wood dry completely. Stain is a fast-drying liquid, so this shouldn't take too long. Once dry, use a tack cloth to remove any dust or dirt.
White Flannel. White Flannel rags hold stain for a long time so they work good for larger areas. When anyone asks us what is the best rag for staining, polishing or dusting we always say White Flannel by a long shot. They are not overly absorbent to over soak through.
The streaking you are describing seems to be the result of the finish being applied too thin. But you don't want to go quite as thick as a brushed-on coat. The way I get a coat that is “just right”, is by using the wipe on/no wipe off method. And I would abandon the sponge applicator in favor of a simple folded rag.
The key to remember is that sanding should be completed as close as possible to staining to ensure the wood profile remains consistent. Following this best practice is important to avoid compromising the wood.
Leave the original stain in place if you want to stain the piece a darker color. If you're going from a light stain to a dark stain, there's no need to strip away the existing stain first. However, keep in mind that the existing stain may alter the color of the finished product.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.