When installing a new subfloor for engineered wood flooring, we recommend plywood instead of chipboard. Ply is generally more durable, stronger and will create the most reliable subfloor for your flooring.
Particle board is made from wood chips, sawdust and resin and is one of the older materials used for subfloors. It's best for engineered hardwood floors, carpet, or luxury vinyl as it doesn't hold nails or staples.
Durability: Birch plywood provides a strong and durable core for an engineered floor. It offers superior strength compared to pine, which can help the floor withstand heavy foot traffic and resist the effects of moisture and humidity over time.
1/2'' ply is ok if your subfloor is in good shape - flat and sturdy. 5/8'' or 3/4'' is better if it's dodgy. Think about transitions to other flooring in the house though.
The best thing to clean engineered hardwood floors is a microfiber mop or a soft-bristle broom. These tools are gentle on the surface. They effectively remove dust and dirt without scratching.
It is always recommended to roll a felt underlayment over the subfloor before this kind of installation takes place. It keeps moisture from being absorbed from the subfloor and makes all the difference between having a hardwood floor that warps and one that maintains its beauty throughout the years.
Swiffer mops are an appropriate tool for sweeping and damp-mopping your engineered hardwood. The Swiffer Wet-Jet in particular is one of the best tools for cleaning engineered hardwood.
Plywood is considered the most popular material used for subflooring, it has been used since the 1950s and remains one of the top choices for contractors. Standard plywood works perfectly fine as a subflooring material, but the best option is ¾” tongue-and-groove plywood subflooring.
OSB can accommodate glue-down, nail/staple or floating hardwood installations. With glue-down, follow the hardwood flooring manufacturer's guidelines. Some prohibit water-based adhesives given the potential for both the flooring and wood substrate to absorb moisture from the glue.
Rather than nails, screws are best to use for subfloors — these fasteners are convenient, easy to remove and capable of providing torque that nails lack. Because of their structure, screws can penetrate plywood more easily and improve the connection, whereas nails can weaken the plywood.
Flatness required as follows- 3/16" in 10' or 1/8" in 6'. Floating floors requirements are more stringent, see section 4.4 for more details. Sand high areas and joints.
Moisture Resistance:
If your subfloor is prone to moisture issues, it's crucial to choose an underlay with moisture-resistant properties. This will help prevent any water damage to your engineered wood flooring over time.
Subfloor conditions
HORIZONTAL / FLAT – Maximum tolerance of 5mm over 3 meter, or 3mm over 2 meter. Sand high areas or joints. If the floor is glued, fill the low areas with a latex additive cement surfacing product with a minimum resistance to compression of 20 000 kPa.
The choice between floating and glue-down installation for an engineered wood floor depends on various factors such as subfloor type, room dimensions, and personal preference. Floating installation offers easier DIY and allows for expansion, while glue-down provides a firmer feel and minimizes movement.
A T&G (tongue and groove) engineered floor can be installed by nailing it to a timber sub-floor using a flooring nailer, sticking it to a concrete floor using wood to concrete glue, or installed on an underlay and the edges glued using a quality wood PVA wood glue. The most common method is gluing.
When installing hardwood or engineered wood flooring, the best underlay options are cork and foam. However, foam does have more give than cork so, while it is the more popular option, we recommend cork. Cork has less give, making it less likely to flex underneath your planks.
Chipboard or Plywood
Subfloors made of chipboard and plywood are commonly installed over floor joists. High-quality chipboard or plywood sheets can make an ideal subfloor for wood flooring installations.
Moisture is a big deal for wooden floors. While engineered hardwood is more moisture-resistant than solid hardwood, it can still take damage from spills, standing water, or excess humidity. An underlay—especially one with a built-in vapor barrier—adds extra protection against water damage and other moisture issues.
Plywood is the most popular material used for subflooring because it's strong and stiff. It comes in different thicknesses, with the thicker options being the best choice for a subfloor. The tongue-and-groove plywood is the best option because it has interlocking edges that help prevent movement.
DRICORE Subfloor covers cold, damp concrete to protect and insulate your floor (R-Value of 1.4). BARRICADE Subfloor Air Plus softens finished floors to cushion against the hard concrete. Its sturdy confection supports over 6,600 pounds per square feet. Concrete continually releases moisture.
Both plywood and OSB are effective choices for your subfloor needs, but OSB may be a better option for a garage than plywood. Plywood is a better option for projects that require a lot of cutting and molding, while OSB is a good option for those who need to cover areas where moisture exposure may be an issue.
Don't use Murphy's Oil Soap
The oil soap can penetrate into the wood, and when you have to have them refinished, they have to be sanded down past the oil so the new finish will adhere. Murphy's Oil Soap also reacts with the finish and softens it so it becomes dull over time.
Yes, Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner is recommended for use on engineered hardwood floors, as well as all unwaxed, unoiled, polyurethane finished wood floors.
We recommend using a microfiber mop on your engineered hardwood flooring. Wet the mop but don't oversaturate and make sure to dry your floors after mopping is complete. For the best results, mop with the direction of the grain of the wood, rather than against it.