The best ground covers for erosion control are plants with deep, fibrous root systems or dense, mat-forming habits that lock soil in place. Top choices for immediate root stabilization include Creeping Juniper (great for sunny, rocky areas), Liriope (excellent for mass planting), and deep-rooted native grasses like Switchgrass.
Designing a Low-Maintenance Hillside Landscape.
For the fastest, most effective slope coverage and erosion control, choose Creeping Juniper (for evergreen coverage), Creeping Phlox (for quick spring color), or Daylilies (for deep-rooting stabilization). Because slopes easily wash out, these options establish rapidly, choke out weeds, and create dense, permanent soil-binding networks.
Native grasses, like little bluestem, purple lovegrass, switchgrass, and river oats, are some of the absolute best plants for erosion control thanks to their deep root systems. These roots are much sturdier than standard turfgrass roots and can hold soil in place and protect slopes from extreme weather.
Perennial Ryegrass is a cool-season grass that is commonly used for lawns, pasture, and erosion control. It is fast-growing and produces a lot of biomass, making it an excellent choice for large-scale erosion control projects. One of the cons of Perennial Ryegrass is that it does not tolerate drought well.
Capture Runoff using soil amendments, rain barrels, rain gardens, terraces and dry wells. If heavy runoff is causing erosion, the least expensive solution is usually to capture or control the runoff at or near the source before it reaches the erosion problem area.
No—not if you want lasting, healthy results. While tossing grass seed over your existing lawn may seem like a simple fix, most of it won't germinate unless you prepare the area properly. Without direct soil contact, the seeds can dry out, wash away, or get eaten by birds before they even have a chance to sprout.
The best ground covers for erosion control are plants with deep, fibrous root systems or dense, mat-forming habits that lock soil in place. Top choices for immediate root stabilization include Creeping Juniper (great for sunny, rocky areas), Liriope (excellent for mass planting), and deep-rooted native grasses like Switchgrass.
Erosion Control Methods
While creeping phlox is a beautiful, low-maintenance ground cover, its main downsides are a short, 3-to-4 week bloom time, vulnerability to fungal diseases like powdery mildew in damp conditions, and a susceptibility to spider mites in hot, dry weather. It also does not handle heavy foot traffic well.
Creeping Thyme
Thymus serpyllum is the ultimate low-maintenance ground cover. It doesn't require mowing, is loaded with delightful flowers, is nicely drought-tolerant, and is resistant to many pests and diseases. It's even happy in soil conditions where other plants might not thrive.
What would you plant on a hillside to stop soil from washing away? Fast-growing plants for erosion control such as suckering shrubs, prairie natives with taproots, and vining perennial ground covers are good slope stabilization plants in erosion-prone areas.
To get my ground covers started off on the right foot, I plant them in spring or early summer so they have a chance to root well and are less likely to heave out of the ground in winter. I make sure to take time to assess the conditions of my site and prepare the soil before planting.
10 Creative Ways to Personalize Your Landscape on a Budget
Most ground covers work well on hills and slopes. Junipers are the best Ground Cover Plants for these difficult areas. Juniper plants are excellent for controlling erosion. If you prefer ground cover flowering plants, Drift Roses and Creeping Phlox are a great choice for planting on hillsides.
The "rule of 3" in landscaping is a foundational design principle suggesting that grouping elements in odd numbers—specifically sets of three—creates more visual balance, rhythm, and natural harmony than even-numbered pairs. It helps outdoor spaces look organic and thoughtfully designed rather than scattered or overly rigid.
Transforming a sloped yard on a budget relies on erosion control, smart plant choices, and working with gravity. Key affordable strategies include laying winding mulch pathways to prevent slipping, building low-cost, natural dry-stack stone retaining walls, and planting deep-rooted, drought-tolerant groundcovers that anchor the soil naturally.
The best rock for erosion control depends on the slope and water flow. For steep slopes and heavy runoff, use Rip Rap (3- to 18-inch angular rock). For moderate slopes, drainage paths, and dry creek beds, River Rock (smooth, 2- to 8-inch stones) works best. Always line the area with heavy-duty geotextile fabric first.
Fixing an eroding hillside involves a combination of slowing water runoff, reinforcing the soil structure, and planting deep-rooted vegetation. Key solutions include installing erosion control mats, building retaining walls or terraces, creating drainage swales, and using ground cover plants, shrubs, or native grasses to anchor the soil.
On hillsides, the roots of grasses, shrubs and trees aid to stabilize the soil and stop erosion, and their leaves and branches act as a covering to shield it from the raindrops. Deep-rooted shrubs are great but more aggressive groundcovers that crawl and root along the top of the soil are best at reducing topsoil loss.
Go for different shades of green with covers like Scotch moss, ajuga, creeping Jenny, Dutch clover, and golden pearlwort, or add some color with flowering ground covers like nepeta, Angelina sedum, basket of gold or amethyst in snow.
When it's October, people often wonder if it is too late to plant new seed. The good news is if you hurry, seed can still be planted in October with the hope that it will survive the upcoming winter. Although September is the best time, often we can still plant grass seed up to October 15 with good results.
A 50 lb bag of grass seed covers between 5,000 and 50,000 square feet, depending on the grass type and whether you are planting a new lawn or overseeding an existing one. Seed size and weight greatly impact how far it spreads.
Yes, you can put topsoil over grass and reseed. However, the depth of your topsoil determines whether you should bury the existing grass or just lightly topdress it.