The best and most universally accepted gap size for shiplap is 18 ππ of an inch. This specific dimension is commonly referred to as a "nickel gap" because the edge of a standard nickel is almost exactly 18 18 of an inch thick.
Proper shiplap spacing requires a gap of 18one-eighthππ inch between boards for the "nickel gap" look and to allow for wood expansion. Always leave a 18one-eighthππ inch gap at the ceiling and floor, and a 1161 over 16 end-fractionπππ inch gap at butt joints for expansion.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Shiplap Cladding
Design: shiplap overlaps; nickel gap boards are installed with a uniform space. Visual appeal: nickel gap offers a cleaner, more contemporary look compared to the rustic charm of shiplap. Installation: nickel gap requires precise spacing, while shiplap's overlap design is a bit more forgiving.
To achieve a flawless shiplap installation, avoid common missteps like skipping the The Spruce step of calculating your layout to prevent thin slivers at the top or bottom, failing to check for levelness, and nailing too close to edges without using studs.
You'll still find the charm and detail of shiplap panels, but with options like tongue and groove wood wall planks, fluted paneling, and limewashed walls, there's a lot more to explore.
You can install shiplap from either direction, but starting at the bottom and working up is generally recommended. It allows gravity to help hold the boards in place and makes it easier to keep the installation flush with your floors or baseboards.
Broadly speaking, basic white shiplap is no longer the height of fashion, with designers shifting toward smoother, "old-world" finishes like limewash and textured plaster. However, shiplap can still feel stylish if used intentionally in smaller doses or updated with modern styling.
1x6 shiplap boards are the most commonly used width of shiplap. Smaller than the 1x8 inch width, this 6-inch shiplap size provides the most classic, versatile look.
A big complaint from those with shiplap in their homes is that it is a magnet for dust. Dust will settle in the gaps and grooves and can make the space look dirty. 2. If not installed correctly, shiplap can warp or rot.
After the board is level, you can go ahead and attach it to the studs. We always recommend face nailing shiplap when installing it on your walls, ceiling, and as exterior siding.
The installation of shiplap siding is not only an aesthetic upgrade but also a smart investment. Its durability, energy efficiency, and timeless appeal can significantly increase the overall value of your home, making it a wise choice for those looking to enhance their property's marketability.
The choice between vertical and horizontal shiplap comes down to the aesthetic you want to achieve and the dimensions of your room. Horizontal is a staple of modern farmhouse design and makes a room feel wider. Vertical feels more modern, contemporary, or cottage-like, and creates the illusion of higher ceilings.
Yes, you should stagger the seams (butt joints) when installing shiplap. Staggering prevents creating continuous vertical lines across your wall or ceiling, which naturally draws the eye and makes the wall look busy or poorly planned.
Use an 18-gauge brad nailer for shiplap. Brad nails are thinner and leave smaller, less noticeable holes. Because true shiplap self-spaces and is largely held by the tongue/groove or overlapping flanges, a brad nailer easily secures the boards without the risk of splitting the wood.
When choosing between 6-inch and 8-inch shiplap, 6-inch is best for small rooms and a classic, rustic look. Eight-inch shiplap covers large spaces faster and delivers a modern, dramatic style with fewer seams.
Widens the Room
Horizontal shiplap has an optical illusion effect just like vertical shiplap does. It can make a room look wider than it is. So, if you want to make a room look or feel larger than it is, horizontal is the way to go.
Modern shiplap typically has a gap between the boards, usually about 18one-eighth18 of an inch wide. This gap is often called a "nickel gap" because the space is perfectly sized to fit a nickel.
To get the shiplap look on a budget, skip expensive pre-cut boards. Instead, create a faux shiplap accent wall using 14one-fourth14-inch or underlayment plywood. Have your local hardware store rip the 4Γ8 sheets into 6- or 8-inch strips, then nail them to your wall using standard spacers.
If you love the texture of shiplap but want to explore different styles, budget options, or easier installations, several alternatives can upgrade your space.
Outdated homes usually suffer from heavy thematic trends, worn-out finishes, or poor lighting. To elevate your space, it helps to focus on replacing dated fixtures, fixing poor lighting, and eliminating overly specific decor.
In 2026, the dominant wood style embraces organic warmth, moving away from cool greys and uniform finishes in favor of natural textures and earthy character.
Yes, you can nail through the tongue of shiplap or tongue-and-groove boards at a 45-degree angle (called blind nailing or toe-nailing). This hides the nail heads for a seamless finish. However, to secure the board firmly and prevent the bottom edge from bowing, you should also face-nail the top overlapping edge.
The best trim for shiplap depends on the location of the joint. For outside corners, outside corner molding or a flush mitered edge offers the cleanest look. For gaps where shiplap meets existing walls or ceilings, quarter-round or cove molding seamlessly hides imperfections.
You do not strictly need drywall behind shiplap. You can install shiplap directly to the wall studs. However, whether it is the best approach depends on your local fire codes and wall usage.