An HVAC damper is a small valve or plate that regulates the airflow inside a building's heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. The damper works by opening or closing to varying degrees in order to control the flow of air through different rooms or zones within the structure.
Closing a vent still allows air to flow through a duct until it reaches the next closed area. With an HVAC damper, you can withhold or redirect airflow more efficiently, as they are installed close to the airflow sources' central openings. You'll help reduce heating and cooling waste and keep costs down significantly.
Dampers are usually installed in attics or basements, but some may also be located inside walls near an HVAC system's filter.
They play a big part in HVAC systems because they let you control the air circulation. By opening or closing the damper, you can control how much air is entering the room and where it will go. In zoning systems they're used to control the temperature between different areas of a home.
HVAC dampers are usually inside your ducts, close to the main air handler. You can find the dampers by looking at the outside of your ducts for a red switch on the exterior. If you can't find the HVAC dampers installed near the air handler, refer to your HVAC system's blueprint to locate them.
Some homes have no dampers at all. A supply duct may travel to the right or left off of your furnace depending on where your home is situated. A damper will generally be inserted in the supply duct that leads to your upper level. Examine all of the runs and see if any have dampers if you have exposed ductwork.
A damper motor can last up to 15 years, but it can wear out more quickly than that if you run your HVAC unit a lot. So you might expect a longer life in a colder climate than if you live in a warmer climate.
Dampers are the adjustable parts of your HVAC system that allow you to control airflow through it. They can be adjusted manually or remotely, and are typically installed in ducts to regulate airflow from one room to another.
Controlling or Throttling the Damper
Then, partially close the damper about one-third of the way. This will retain more heat inside your home, leaving plenty of room for the fumes to vent. If you still want more heat, close the vent a little more (about halfway).
"Damper" is a term that describes the primary function of a shock or strut. Both are intended to control spring oscillation. They do this by damping the spring's natural tendency to oscillate by using hydraulic fluid. An un-damped spring will vibrate for quite some time after its initial compression or extension.
HVAC dampers cost around $350 to replace for a motorized damper, while a manual damper costs around $100 on average. Overall, expect to pay around $100 to $600 to replace an HVAC damper, whether you have automatic dampers, mechanical dampers, motorized dampers, or manual dampers.
In general, homeowners can expect to pay between $150 and $500 for a standard chimney damper replacement. One of the most significant factors that affect the cost of chimney damper replacement is the type of damper.
You will see the ductwork that carries the forced air throughout your home and out of the vents in each room of your home. The easiest way to spot a damper is by looking for a metal “lever” like in the picture above. You may need a flashlight to locate the damper as it is the same color as your damper.
Temperature imbalances can be caused by a variety of factors. These include blocked vents or registers, ductwork inefficiencies, air leaks near windows and doors, and unbalanced HVAC systems.
Signs that the damper is not working properly are that it does not open or shut at all or it does not open or shut fully, causing smoke to fill the house when the fireplace is lit or cold air to blow into the house when no fire is burning.
The simple answer is 'no'. Regardless of your reason, our experts DO NOT recommend ever shutting your vents or registers completely, and here's why!
Typically in most homes, your HVAC dampers are located in the main supply trunks. The supply trunks are the parts of the ductwork that are blowing warm air or cold air depending on the season.
Bottom line: You probably shouldn't close your air supply vents. Excessive static pressure inside an HVAC system is never a good thing. Closing too many air supply dampers could put you in the static pressure “danger zone.” Instead, have a pro measure the static pressure to see if you can safely adjust your dampers.
You're likely to find furnace dampers on either side of the large metal box (the plenum) near the furnace. If you have a two-story home, there's probably another one where the ductwork leads upstairs. In a smart-zoned HVAC system, you'll also find dampers to open and close off the different zones.
There are three main types of ducting used within domestic ventilation systems: rigid ducting, semi-rigid ducting and flexible ducting.
Fresh air intake vents are simply the way your home takes in fresh outside air, making sure the air inside your home isn't overtaken by contaminated or toxic air. It is an air duct that starts in the space where the furnace is located – usually the basement – that leads to an outside vent.
Replace your damper when you top 500,000 miles. It's not worth the risk to go much beyond that. Short of sending it in to be checked (which, including shipping, costs more than buying a new one), you can't see if the torsion ring can still turn freely. If the damper is dented, it definitely needs to be replaced.