Did you know that if you prune too late in the season, you stimulate new growth, which will not have time to harden off before the first frost, which will be coming soon to our neck of the woods. This can weaken and damage the plant, so its best to leave the pruning until spring.
Dormant pruning is usually done in late winter, six to 10 weeks before the average last frost in your area. You can prune shrubs at any time of year if it's necessary—for example, to remove broken branches or dead or diseased wood, or to remove growth that is obstructing a walkway.
Leaves the crown open to wind damage and sun scald, and. Increases reaction, or stress-response, growth sprouts (“watersprouts”) along the trunk and branches. These reaction sprouts are a sign of over-pruning – the tree is putting out new growth quickly in an attempt to generate energy through photosynthesis.
The best time to prune is after flowering. If the plant needs to be renovated, or severely reduced, this can be done late winter and early spring just before growth begins. Remove old flowers (deadhead) and cut back to healthy outward facing buds.
Few plants are pruned this time of year because pruning encourages new growth that does not have time to harden off before winter. Late-season pruning typically does more harm than good.
Pruning in August improves plant form just ahead of fall's growth spurt. Light shaping now will look beautiful after new fall growth arrives in the weeks ahead. Note: Plants should be well watered in the days ahead of pruning. Those that are experiencing drought stress should not be pruned.
In general, avoid pruning landscape trees in mid- to late summer (July, August and September), unless it's very light, because you can induce an off-season growth spurt, which can leave some species, such as ficus, vulnerable to freeze damage.
Summer is an excellent time for restorative pruning. You can correct problems that have resulted from over-pruning or poor pruning. You can also clean up damage from winter and spring storms. Proper pruning will begin to restore most plants' natural shape.
The best season to prune trees is while they are dormant, or generally between November and March. This means waiting for them to lose their foliage and cease growth, but before forming buds. For fruit trees such as the apple tree, prune in late winter.
According to gardening expert Mike McGrath, author of Mike McGrath's Book of Compost, and radio host of the show You Bet Your Garden, the rule of pruning is that you should NOT prune in fall. That's right, nothing and no exceptions.
Pruning during the growing season always stimulates new growth. During summer's heat, having to produce that ill-timed new flush of growth greatly stresses a tree. Pruning in the fall is even worse as it prevents the tree from going into a natural dormancy. The exception is heavily damaged, disease or dead wood.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This moderate pruning practice is a balanced approach to thinning out shrubs to stimulate new growth. The plant loses a good amount of stems, usually on the top section, allowing more light and air to enter the inside of the plant.
An improper cut like a flush cut (cutting too close to the trunk) or a stub cut (cutting too far from the trunk) can cause irreversible damage to a tree. A flush cut removes the branch collar and leaves a large wound in the side of the tree that won't heal properly.
Deciduous Trees
Most trees should be pruned during the late dormant season (February through March). February through March is generally regarded as the best time to prune most deciduous trees.
Pruning to remove damaged, dead or diseased parts can be done at any time of the year. Most trees and shrubs, especially those that flower on current season's new growth should be pruned in late winter or early spring before the onset of new growth. (March-April).
In early fall, pruning wounds close more slowly and plants are more at risk for fungal diseases than at other times of year. For most trees, the best time for major pruning is late winter to early spring because wounds close faster.
Never shear a shrub in fall (or ever, actually, but that's another article) and leave major pruning or renovation for late winter/early spring, or immediately after bloom for spring-flowering shrubs.
Late summer or early fall pruning causes vigorous re-growth of tissue, which in some cases may not harden off by the time winter arrives, leading to possible cold damage to the new growth.
If you've got a fruit tree, summer pruning will promotes more blossoms (and more fruit!) the following spring. Fruit will mature better in sunlight, so allowing air and sun to reach the fruit will boost its size and sweetness.
Overgrown trees can pose a serious risk to your property and your family. Dead or damaged branches can fall and cause damage to your home or car or even injure someone. In addition, overgrown trees can block sunlight and views and can even damage foundations or driveways.
So if you are wondering, is it ok to prune or trim trees in the summer, just know that pruning in the summer is primarily for shaping and creating a solid structure. Heavy pruning should be saved for winter, when trees are under less stress.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
The period between the full and new moon (third and fourth quarters) is best for harvesting, slowing growth, etc.