Protection against Damaged Floors However, if you have the flooring installed first, it can easily get scratched, cracked, or even completely ruined by trying to place a heavy object such as a bathtub on it, so it's often best and more convenient to place the tub first and add the new flooring afterward.
Yes, unless there's some REALLY good reason to do otherwise, you should set the tub first. You, of course, do need to be sure to well-protect the tub from damage during the tile work (several layers of cardboard and tarps, eg). (I'm amazed that some ``professionals'' don't seem to understand this.)
Bath always installed first, then tiles set out to take into consideration floor/ceiling, bath/windows or any other feature necessary to overcome. Obviously, you could do the bulk of the tiling without the bath in, then tile down to bath once fitted...
Here's the bottom line: Don't tile under a drop-in or alcove tub. That will make things unnecessarily complicated. But you can tile under a freestanding tub, and tile always looks great under a clawfoot tub.
acm In terms of actual laying it, you usually do the tub and then the tile and then the vanity, etc., on the finished floor. In terms of picking, start with the vanity, then tile, or maybe the two in tandem.
So you are installing a new bathroom and suddenly have hit a snag-which should you install first, the flooring or bathtub? The short answer is that standard bathtubs such as alcove and corner bathtubs should always be installed first, followed by the wallboard, the subfloor and the vinyl.
Set the first tile where your two layout lines intersect. Press the tile tight to the wall, and ensure its edges are flush with the horizontal and vertical lines. Keep setting full tiles along the lines in both directions, working out toward the end wall and down to the tub in a stepped pattern.
Potential for Leaks: Installing flooring before the shower can provide protection against possible leaks, ensuring that your subfloor and new flooring remain undamaged.
BEST SEALANTS FOR CAULKING BATHTUBS
Loctite Polyseamseal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk has been specifically formulated to create a long-lasting, flexible seal that is resistant to mold and mildew. It works on both fiberglass and ceramic surfaces as a two-in-one product, making it highly versatile.
Why You Should Tile the Wall First. It may be delicate to create a suspended wall tile effect if you tile the walls first. On the flip side, tiling the walls first will help you dodge the mishaps and messes associated with tile and mortar.
Ask any professional Tradesperson and they'll tell you that wall and floor tiles should go in first, before installing your fixtures and fittings. This allows for a more professional finish, and means avoiding awkward tile cuts to fit around fixtures.
To achieve a top-notch result and enhance water damage resistance, it's advisable to prioritise tiling the floor and walls first.
We recommend putting the drain assembly together first before securing your tub to the studs. This makes the installation easier…and lessens the likelihood of you tearing out your hair (just keeping it real).
Freestanding tubs do traditionally sit on tiled floors, however it's not necessary.
Protection against Damaged Floors
However, if you have the flooring installed first, it can easily get scratched, cracked, or even completely ruined by trying to place a heavy object such as a bathtub on it, so it's often best and more convenient to place the tub first and add the new flooring afterward.
Tiling the new floor will help prevent accidents if you decide to complete the shower floor first. To secure the fresh tiles, use fabric or paper.
What this means in practical terms is that you should always remove the toilet if you are renovating it, in order to place tiles beneath the toilet on the new bathroom floor. The toilet flange then goes atop after you install tiles for the bathroom flooring.
In general, cement boards are a highly moisture-resistant building material that can withstand the damp conditions found in bathrooms and showers, where water can accumulate and seep into the walls over time.
Plan to extend the tile 2 or 3 in. beyond the tub and leave at least a half tile along the wall if possible. Don't stop tile even with the end of the tub. This leaves the walls along the front of the tub vulnerable to water damage and doesn't look as finished as tile that extends to the floor.
It is possible to tile over drywall where it is not subject to extreme humidity and is secure. It is not recommended to lay tiles over walls and areas subject to moisture, such as in showers. The water in these areas could eventually seep into the tile, causing damage to the tile, mold, or infestations.
The tub will expand much faster than the tile which will put stress on anything non-flexible. Grout is extremely non-flexible and will crack and pulverize at that joint. Caulk remains flexible. And really, you want the 100% silicone stuff, not just any caulk.
Technically, you don't need to tile behind it, but tiling has advantages. Tiles provide a moisture barrier, prevent potential water damage, and make cleaning easier. Tiling is especially useful if your freestanding bathtub is positioned against a wall or near a shower fixture.
Install cement board or an equivalent moisture-resistant backing material on walls behind tub and shower enclosures composed of tile or panel assemblies with caulked joints. Don't use paper-faced backer board, i.e., paper-faced drywall, behind seamed tub and shower enclosures.