Use gravel fill in the bottom 6 inches of each post hole for proper drainage. Pour concrete into all end, corner, and gate post holes for a more stable fence.
The space needed between your boards depends if your boards are kiln-dried or green. For kiln-dried wood, leave about 1/16th of an inch, and for green wood go snug, but not overly tight.
To create a uniform gap within proportion, an 18-20mm space is recommended between boards.
Between the posts, a fence should be a few inches above the ground. For yards that are relatively flat this isn't much of a problem. For yards with large changes in grade, there are a number of different ways to handle it.
DO Employ a Base Gravel Layer. If a fence post fails without any sign of a pest infestation, it's likely that the failure was caused by moisture that rotted the wood over time. To help slow such deterioration, add pea gravel or crushed stone to the bottom of the posthole.
Insert Aggregate
Once you've dug your hole, place about 6 inches of aggregate in the bottom of the posthole to allow for drainage. This will minimize the amount of water that comes into contact with your cedar fence post. Pro Tip: The bottom of the post should extend a few inches into the aggregate as shown.
Fast-setting concrete is ideal for installing fence posts since it doesn't need to be mixed in a bucket or a wheelbarrow. Once you've finished digging your post holes, add about three to four inches of gravel into the bottom and compact it using a post or a 2x4.
A kickboard, sometimes known as a "rot board," is a piece of wood that's placed on the bottom of a fence and is in contact with the ground. Kickboards are typically pressure-treated. Pressure treating is a process where wood is treated so that it becomes resistant to rot, decay, and pest infestation.
A lean-in or L-footer will do the trick. You make a lean-in by taking some farm wire and attaching it to the top of your fence so that it creates a sort of awning on the inside. Your dog will see fencing above them and that should deter any climbing.
This method is stronger than using dirt, but not as strong as using cement. Sand: Filling the hole with sand will help to support the fence post. Like gravel, this method is stronger than using dirt, but not as strong as using cement.
If your posts are larger than 3”, make sure the hole is at least 1 ½” – 2” larger than post. If you're using fast setting grout as an additive to concrete, make sure to use the 1:2:3 mix: Grout : Portland : Gravel. Use as little water as possible but enough to establish flow. Too much water will break down the grout.
Add six inches of gravel, such as Quikrete All-Purpose Gravel, to the bottom of the holes. Gravel provides a solid base for the fence post to sit on and prevents it from coming into direct contact with the soil below, which might increase the risk of rotting.
secure set is an alternative to traditional concrete, works extremely fast, sets in minutes, not days. as a polyurethane closed cell foam, secure set is waterproof, protecting your posts below ground line, and can be installed in temperatures ranging from 0° to 100° f.
Most fence posts require anywhere from one to 10 bags of concrete. Actual concrete amounts vary depending on post hole diameter and depth. Account for frost lines and gravel when doing calculations.
The depth of the hole should be 1/3-1/2 the post height above ground (i.e., a 6-foot tall fence would require a hole depth of at least 2 feet). Add about 6 inches of QUIKRETE All-Purpose Gravel into the bottom of the hole. Then compact and level the gravel using a post or 2x4.
While a treated 4x4 may last 10 to 25 years, depending on the wood, the soil, and weather conditions, following the simple steps below could double or triple that number. By comparison, an untreated wood fence post may need replacing in as little as five years.
If there are more than one rock or stone or if there are a series at regular intervals, rocks were used to indicate a turning or stopping point. Long before marking chalk, paint, strip markers and GPS were available, ranchers and farmers used stones as visible place or reference point markers.
You can often guess who owns a fence by looking at where the frames are – the builders or property owners should have put the fence up facing away from their own property so their neighbour gets the 'good' side. This should be repeated with the neighbour on the other side so each home has one 'bad' and one 'good' side.
Face the finished side of the fence toward your neighbor
In particular, the solid panel fences often used for privacy are generally constructed like this. The finished side should face toward your neighbor. Not only is this more polite, but it's the standard.
With concrete holding the moisture against the wood, wood has no chance and will eventually lose the battle. Now you don't have to lose all hope because it's for certain that the concrete around the post will crack, therefore making it easy to pull out when it starts to rot. Even worse, the concrete cracks early.