A well pump usually burns out due to overheating or electrical stress. The primary culprits are running the pump dry (pumping air), short cycling (rapidly turning on and off), sediment wear, or power issues like lightning strikes and voltage drops.
Your well water pump is overheating primarily because it is running too long without water to cool it, working too hard, or experiencing electrical malfunctions.
A submersible well pump can run continuously for several hours to 24 hours without burning out, provided the well doesn't run dry. However, continuous running heavily relies on the recovery rate of your well (how fast water refills the aquifer). The real danger isn't the runtime itself, but the pump running dry.
If you place your deep well pump too close to your Static Water Level (water surface) in the well, you may inadvertently over-pump your well. In this scenario there is the possibility of your pump burning out due to bubbles of air forming in the water column.
To determine if your well pump is burnt out, check for a complete lack of water, zero pressure at the gauge, and listen for silence when a demand for water should trigger it to run. A "burnt out" pump will often draw zero amperage on a multimeter, meaning the motor is dead.
Knowing how many years should a well pump last is important because it can be a signal that it's time for a new piece of equipment. With proper well maintenance, your new well pump can last, on average, 8 to 15 years, though many homeowners report their pumps lasting far longer, often between 20 and 30 years!
Testing a well pump without pulling it involves isolating whether the issue is electrical or mechanical. First, check for tripped breakers and verify the system is receiving the correct voltage at the pressure switch. Next, test the wire resistance with a multimeter and check the amperage using a clamp meter.
The average cost to replace a well pump is between $1,500 and $4,000, including both parts and professional labor. Most homeowners spend around $2,000 to $3,000 for a standard residential replacement, though complex jobs can exceed $5,000.
Yes, a well pump will eventually burn out if it runs continuously. Most residential pumps are designed for short, intermittent cycles. Constant operation overheats the motor, causes severe friction wear, and will destroy the system—often in a matter of weeks or months.
Below are 3 top causes of water pump failure caused by external issues and techniques for prevention.
Risk of Pump Burnout: Sump pumps are not designed for extended dry operation. Running the pump without sufficient water to pump can lead to burnout. The motor can overheat, causing irreparable damage and rendering the entire system ineffective when it's needed the most to prevent water damage.
A 2-gallon-per-minute (GPM) well is considered low-yield. While it falls short of the recommended 5 to 10 GPM for standard households, it can still fully support a home if you manage water usage carefully or install a supplemental storage (cistern) system.
Early signs of a failing water pump include visible coolant leaks, a high-pitched whining or grinding noise from the front of the engine, a slow but steady drop in the coolant reservoir, and an engine temperature gauge that occasionally creeps higher than normal.
Pump burn out happens when your pump does not function at full capacity or prematurely dies out. This happens when the pump is frequently turned on and off or there is improper care and installation. The leading cause of pump burn out is from running dry.
To stop your well pump from short cycling (rapidly turning on and off), you must restore the air cushion in your pressure tank, replace a faulty pressure switch, or fix hidden plumbing leaks.
A bad well pump usually signals itself through low or fluctuating water pressure, sputtering faucets, constantly running motors, or a sudden spike in your electricity bill. On average, pumps last 8 to 15 years; if yours is within this range and acting up, it may be failing.
To determine if your well pump is burnt out, check for a complete lack of water, zero pressure at the gauge, and listen for silence when a demand for water should trigger it to run. A "burnt out" pump will often draw zero amperage on a multimeter, meaning the motor is dead.
If your well pump keeps cycling, the pressure tank or pressure switch may be the issue. However, another possible cause is an overcharged pressure tank. When too much air builds up in the tank, the system may struggle to maintain proper pressure and may start turning on and off more often than it should.
But, if the well runs dry the pump will continue to run, overheat, melt the fittings, then stop. Water will spray everywhere as the fittings fail and the pressure finally plummets below 10psi and the pump finally shuts off. Or, there's a thermal switch in the motor that triggers the shut down.
Well Pump Repairs
Often, repair costs are lower than a complete replacement, costing between $250 to $1,100, depending on the problem.
Homeowners insurance will generally only cover a well pump if the damage is sudden and caused by a covered "peril" (like a lightning strike, fire, or vandalism). It does not cover standard wear and tear, age-related mechanical breakdowns, or gradual failure.
Drilling and installing a complete 200-foot residential well typically costs between $10,000 and $25,000, with most homeowners paying around $12,000 to $15,000 on average. This price includes the physical drilling, casing, pump installation, pressure tank, and local permits.
To reset a well pump, cycle the circuit breaker or use the manual lever on your pressure switch. If your system has a low-water cutoff or a pump control box with a fault light, it requires holding the lever up until the pressure builds or waiting for it to auto-reset.
Yes, you can pull a well pump by hand, but it is physically demanding and generally only feasible if the pump is relatively shallow (under 100 feet) and uses lightweight flexible piping rather than heavy rigid steel. For deeper wells, you will almost certainly need a winch, engine hoist, or professional assistance.
Your centrifugal or submersible pump may still run if wired incorrectly, however, the flow will be reduced to about 60% of what it should be. 3. Single phase pumps (110v or 230v) cannot run backwards. However, three phase pumps can have the direction reversed by switching over any two of the three live wires.