Yes, you should sand cedar wood, but the necessity and technique depend heavily on the project and the type of cedar. Sanding opens the wood's pores, removes surface imperfections, and eliminates "mill glaze" so finishes can penetrate evenly.
Yes, you can sand cedar, but because it is a very soft wood with long, fibrous cells, it can clog sandpaper quickly and cause a fuzzy finish. Use a random orbital sander and start with a coarse 60- to 80-grit paper to knock down rough areas, then follow with 120- to 150-grit to prevent closing the wood pores.
For sanding cedar, silicon carbide and garnet abrasives work best. Cedar is a soft wood prone to fuzzy fibers and clogged resin. Silicon carbide cuts cleanly and resists resin clogs. Use a grit range of 80 to 120 for general shaping, and 150 to 220 for a smooth finish.
Use finishes specially formulated for “interior” applications in low-moisture areas of the home. Finish if you want to provide some protection to the cedar from minor abrasions. Use bleach, oils, semi-transparent and solid body stains and opaque finishes, if you want to change the wood's appearance.
The primary disadvantages of cedar wood are its natural softness, which makes it prone to dents and scratches, and its high maintenance requirements to prevent fading and weathering. It is also more expensive than woods like pine and can be a respiratory irritant when cut.
Cedar is an excellent, highly durable wood, especially famous for outdoor projects like fencing, siding, and garden beds. Its natural oils repel insects and resist rot. However, it is a soft wood, meaning it dents easily and requires regular sealing to maintain its color.
While it's commonly thought that certain woods like cedar are termite-repellent, termites can still eat them if other food sources are scarce. Regular inspection and maintenance are important to help prevent infestations, even with naturally resistant materials.
The best way to seal cedar depends on its use, but penetrating oil sealers (like Ready Seal Wood Stain & Sealer or Wolman F&P) are top choices. They soak deep into the wood's pores, protect against UV rays and moisture, and won't peel or crack.
It's the preparation that is key! What's important is cleaning to degrease, dulling the surface with a deglosser, and priming with a stain-blocking primer that's a bonding primer. You literally can paint over any stained wood with that combination. Then over the top you can you can use any latex paint.
Stains protect the boards from moisture and look great, but unlike penetrating oils, they do not replenish the natural oils extracted by the sun. They are designed to erode over time, often unevenly, and leave the timber unprotected and unsightly.
For cedar deck boards, use a coarse grit (around 60-80). We recommend using a random orbital sander with 60-grit and finishing with a 80-grit if needed to remove circular marks. We don't recommend using a drum type flooring sander because it's very easy to over sand areas resulting in an uneven surface.
The surfaces of finished Western Red Cedar decks, siding and trim boards exposed outdoors inevitably become dirty and can also be discolored by mildew, algae and moss. These natural elements slowly erode the finishes and as a result, all finishes applied to cedar require regular cleaning and maintenance to perform.
Sanding techniques for a smooth finish
To achieve a smooth finish on aromatic cedar, start by using a medium-grit sandpaper to even out the wood surface. Then, switch to a fine-grit sandpaper to remove any remaining rough spots and achieve a smooth texture.
For cedar wood, use an 80-grit to 120-grit sandpaper for initial shaping and removing splinters. Finish with 120-grit to 220-grit for a smooth surface ready for staining or sealing. Because cedar is a soft wood, adjust your grit based on the condition of the wood and your planned finish.
Weathered penetrating stains on mildew-free surfaces are relatively easy to refinish. Excessive scraping or sanding is not required. A stiff, non-ferrous bristle brush may be used to remove surface dirt, dust and loose wood fibers before applying the stain.
Rough-cut cedar should usually receive two coats of high-quality paint or stain in order to protect it. You can trust that your cedar stain will last about eight years when properly prepared and applied by the Sharper Impressions team.
If you do use it for an exterior painted project make sure it's completely encapsulated with primer and paint before assembling. Cedar is porous and when you paint only the exposed sides it'll wick moisture and rot really quickly.
For smooth-planed, flat-grained cedar, some surface preparation may be desirable. On flat-grained wood, the surface should be scuff-sanded with 50-60 grit sandpaper. This procedure will greatly increase the coatings performance but will not detract from a smooth finish.
If you do not stain your cedar fence, it will turn gray, dry out, and may crack over time. Staining protects against UV damage, moisture, and other elements, helping to preserve its color and life.
The best finish for cedar depends on whether it is indoors or outdoors, and whether you want to preserve the natural color or let it weather gracefully.
If you prefer to preserve the original color of your cedar fence, there are steps you can take to slow down the greying process: Seal and Protect: Applying a high-quality wood sealant or finish to your cedar fence can help shield it from UV radiation and moisture, preserving its natural color for a longer time.
Cedar generally needs to be sealed every 2 to 5 years, depending on its exposure to the elements and the type of product used. Horizontal surfaces (decks) and areas in direct sunlight or heavy rain require more frequent sealing, while vertical surfaces (siding) and shaded areas can last up to 5 to 7 years.
The primary disadvantages of cedar wood are its natural softness, which makes it prone to dents and scratches, and its high maintenance requirements to prevent fading and weathering. It is also more expensive than woods like pine and can be a respiratory irritant when cut.
Termites strongly dislike powerful, bitter, and tangy scents that disrupt their pheromone signals and navigation. The smells they hate the most include:
Cedar actually repels insects rather than attracting them. It contains natural aromatic oils—such as thujone and cedrol—that disorient and deter pests like ants, moths, mosquitoes, and ticks.