On most projects where insulation meets the under-slab vapor barrier, we have found that the project teams elect to install their insulation first and to lay the vapor barrier over top. Various industry leaders have commented on the advantage of placing the vapor barrier directly beneath the slab.
Lastly, the geographic location of the construction needs to be taken into careful consideration when deciding the proper placement of a vapor barrier in relation to the wall assembly. Properly placed vapor barriers should be installed on the warm, humid side of a wall.
A Vapour Control Layer, or VCL for short, is a plastic layer that restricts the movement of warm, moist air from inside a property into the fabric of the building. VCLs prevent excess moisture entering a wall's cavity, behind the insulation.
``If installed on top of attic floor insulation, the foil will be susceptible to dust accumulation and may trap moisture in fiber insulation, so it is strongly recommended that you NOT apply radiant barriers directly on top of the attic floor insulation.''
Vapour control layer building regulations
12 require that all new builds have an approved VCL fixed to the warm side of all insulation and cover the external framed wall area. It must be fitted at 250mm centres to the top and bottom of frames, around openings, at laps and wherever there has been any damage.
On most projects where insulation meets the under-slab vapor barrier, we have found that the project teams elect to install their insulation first and to lay the vapor barrier over top. Various industry leaders have commented on the advantage of placing the vapor barrier directly beneath the slab.
Add a vapour barrier on the warm side of the wall within the first third of the thermal resistance value of the overall wall insulation.
General rule of thumb is that the WATER barrier goes on the exterior wall, just under the outer cladding, and the VAPOR barrier goes on the warmest side of the wall, up against the sheathing. You can have only one water barrier, and only one vapor barrier, so you would need to remove the existing one.
Radiant barriers may be installed in attics in several configurations. The simplest is to lay the radiant barrier directly on top of existing attic insulation, with the reflective side up.
* vapor barrier or vapor retardant is a material which does not allow water vapor to pass through it. * non5perforated radiant barrier is a vapor retardant (vapor barrier) and if used, it will not allow water vapor to pass through.
After the insulation is in place you will want to add a vapor retarder, sometimes called a vapor barrier, if you need one. Not every wall does. A vapor retarder is a material used to prevent water vapor from diffusing into the wall, ceiling or floor during the cold winter.
Tip 3: Determine the most vulnerable side – When installing insulation with a vapor barrier, the vapor barrier should usually be applied on the side of the insulation that's closest to where it will be exposed to the most warmth and moisture.
Joe Lstiburek, an engineer and principal with Building Science Corp. in Westford, Mass., responds: Installing a vapor barrier on both sides of a wall is never a good idea in any climate.
Because a vapor barrier is a low permeable barrier, it keeps moisture from passing through. This is beneficial to keep moisture away from a dry surface but will trap moisture behind it if installed on a water-damaged concrete wall, causing the wall to fail further.
It's the first line of defence against high vapour pressure air entering the roof structure and causing interstitial condensation. Because of this, the VCL always sits at the warm side of the insulation.
Install a New Vapor Barrier
If your vapor barrier was damaged or not installed correctly, it's important to replace it with a new one. This will help prevent moisture from seeping into your crawl space and creating the perfect environment for mold growth.
The sequence of construction steps is up for interpretation and may vary depending on your contractor or construction manager. Some builders swear by installing the vapor barrier first, while others claim that laying the vapor barrier over the insulation is better. Both may be correct.
If installed on top of attic floor insulation, the foil will be susceptible to dust accumulation and may trap moisture in fiber insulation, so it is strongly recommended that you NOT apply radiant barriers directly on top of the attic floor insulation.
Typically we suggest you have an air gap between 1/2″ and 3/4″ for the radiant barrier to work. Air gaps larger than this work well too – they promote ventilation on the foil and help keep the air dry and the air temps lower.
Vapor barriers are installed along, in, or around walls, ceilings, and floors. Of course this is done to prevent moisture from spreading and potentially causing water damage.
A vapour barrier is placed on the inner side of the insulation and is designed to stop moist air from passing through it. A breathable membrane, by contrast, is installed on the outer side of the insulation. Breathable membranes must repel water from the outside while still allowing moisture from the inside to escape.
They perform best when installed closest to the warm side of a structural assembly -- toward the interior of the building in cold climates and toward the exterior in hot/wet climates. Vapor retarder installation should be continuous and as close to perfect as possible.
Extend vapor retarder at least 6 inches up walls, columns, and footings. Use physical attachments where practical and necessary for long-term adhesion of vapor barrier to vertical surfaces. Overlap all seams at least 12 inches using a reverse or upslope lapping technique.
Both are designed to keep moisture out of your home and can be made from various materials. But there are a few key differences, the most apparent being that moisture barriers are better at keeping out liquids, and vapor barriers are better at keeping out water in its gaseous state.
If doing an encapsulation (including the crawlspace in the building envelope and making it conditioned space) the experts agree that the vapor barrier should extend up the wall, stopping four to six inches below the sill plate to allow for an unobstructed pest control inspection area.