Sand the Interior Sanding the interior of your cedar chest will also potentially remove any remaining stains. Plus, it also refreshes the cedar smell.
Yes, finish it, to equalize the stress to prevent warping. I built a cedar lined chest out of cherry finished with polyurethane (except for the cedar of course) more than 20 years ago, and the finish still looks great.
Lightly sand the wood inside the chest with a fine-grade sandpaper, which will release a fresh cedar smell. Then vacuum up the wood residue, and wipe with a microfiber cloth to get rid of dust. To revive the cedar smell, add a bit of cedar-wood oil on a small area of the inside of the lid.
It is proven that textured surfaces hold coatings better than smooth surfaces. If the smooth face of Western Red Cedar is the graded face and the exposed face, light sanding will improve the performance of any finish.
On the outside, use whatever finish you like. If you feel you do need something on the inside to make the surface more "snag-free," try this: Dilute some shellac to about one part shellac and 3 or 4 parts alcohol. Apply this liberally to the cedar. One coat is the limit.
Just take a 220-grit sandpaper and lightly sand the inside of the chest. The interior is unfinished so you can easily do that. Just make sure that you sand in the direction of the grain. A fine sandpaper sanded in the direction of the gain will work wonders to restore the aroma of a chest!
This is best achieved using transparent finishes such as waxes, shellac and other clear film forming finishes. These “interior” finishes provide some protection to the cedar from minor abrasion and liquids (less so with wax) and make cleaning easier.
To prepare cedar wood for finishing, it's essential to start by sanding the surface to ensure it's smooth and free from any imperfections. You can use a fine-grit sandpaper, around 120 to 150 grit, to achieve a good result. After sanding, wipe the wood with a clean, damp cloth to remove any dust and debris.
Cedar posts that are installed in a dry, well-drained area and are thick enough to resist warping can last for up to 25 years without rotting, while those installed in a damp environment may only last for 5-10 years before showing signs of rot.
Cedar can and will rot and decay, it just takes alot longer than other wood. It can become weak and brittle so it depends on the design of your chairs and the thickness of the planks as to whether or not they'll hold up and support the weight you're going for.
An old cedar chest's worth is based on its age, condition or rarity -- starting at $99 and as high as $700 or more. If the hardware is original then it is worth more and can fetch about $200 to $400.
Wet a lint-free cloth with vinegar and wipe down the interior of the chest. After it is wiped down, let it air dry before closing the lid. You can also try placing a bowl of coffee grounds or baking soda in the chest to absorb smells.
Thanks to cedar wood's amazing water resistance properties you don't need to fear mold growing inside of your chest. Decay resistant – Your cedar chest will not rot away with age.
Transparent, non-flexible, film-forming finishes such as lacquer, shellac, urethane, and varnish are not recommended for exterior use on cedar. Ultraviolet radiation can penetrate the transparent film and degrade the wood.
Sand your cedar
Make sure the interior of your cedar chests and closets is sanded every few years. Sanding the wood will bring out the aroma of the oils below the surface of the wood. If the wood is really dry, consider sanding and applying some cedar oil.
Cedar naturally contains oils that help to repel moisture and insects, which makes it a great choice for siding. However, over time these oils can break down, leaving the wood vulnerable to damage. Sealing your cedar siding helps to protect it from moisture, UV rays, and pests, which can help extend its lifespan.
For optimum surface durability, the first coat may be of high gloss lacquer followed by one or two coats of matte or satin lacquer. On smooth cedar, a final coat of wax will impart a rich sheen to the wood. Clear varnish is recommended only for smooth surfaces. It will inevitably add a richer, darker tone to cedar.
Thoroughly clean the cedar fence to remove dirt, dust, mold, mildew, and any existing sealant or stain using a pressure washer, and allow it to dry completely. If the wood surface is rough or has splinters, consider sanding it with a fine-grit sandpaper to achieve a smoother finish.
Finish if you want to provide some protection to the cedar from minor abrasions. Use bleach, oils, semi-transparent and solid body stains and opaque finishes, if you want to change the wood's appearance.
Untreated cedar fences, made of natural and rot-resistant wood, can typically last for approximately 15 to 20 years under ideal conditions. However, a cedar fence treated with a protective stain can prolong its life even further, potentially lasting over 30 years with proper maintenance.
Certain oils work best with specific wood types, and the preferred oil for cedar is linseed oil. This slow-drying oil gives cedar a luxurious shine that subtly avoids that overly glossy look. It sinks deep into the wood creating a rich, supple finish. Teak oil is a popular runner-up for cedar.
If the finish begins to fade and you want to restore it, you do not need to sand it off. All you need to do is clean off the surface and apply a new coat. This is a practical finish to use as it naturalizes the look of the wood – a better choice than polyurethane or varnish.