Not before, between or after coats. A lot of sources will say you do, but I've found it's just not the case. Because I prep most surfaces these days with a blade, sanding has become rare in my shop. Tung oil doesn't require it for adhesion, smoothness, clarity, or gloss (tung can be built to a gloss/semi-gloss too).
Without sanding, subsequent layers may not adhere as well, leading to potential peeling or chipping down the line. Additionally, any imperfections from the first coat, like brush strokes or dust, will be amplified, resulting in a rougher and less polished finish.
When tung oil dries, it dries from the outside in. If there is too much tung oil left on the surface, or if the first coat is not allowed to cure before a subsequent coat is applied, there will be unreacted tung oil under the surface layer.
Repeat the application of the oil, 1/2 rest period, and removal of the excess. To get maximum protection, you should apply 3 coats of full-strength tung oil.
Not before, between or after coats. A lot of sources will say you do, but I've found it's just not the case. Because I prep most surfaces these days with a blade, sanding has become rare in my shop. Tung oil doesn't require it for adhesion, smoothness, clarity, or gloss (tung can be built to a gloss/semi-gloss too).
Pros & Cons of Tung Oil as a Wood Finish
It's all natural, non-toxic, and eco-friendly, and it doesn't yellow as much over time as common finishes like linseed oil, nitrocellulose lacquer, or varnishes like polyurethane. On the other hand, tung oil is expensive and susceptible to water rings, stains, and scratches.
Once the first coat is generously applied, let the tung oil sit and absorb into the wood. This absorption process is essential for achieving a deep seal. Give it up to 40 minutes, ensuring the porous surface takes in the first coat effectively.
You can apply a wax on top of tung oil. You should not need to remove any of the existing tung oil to get an even shine.
Boiled linseed oil, flooded on and wiped off, should dry completely completely in two or three days. Raw linseed oil will take one to two weeks.
The end-goal for painting projects is to produce a very smooth finish: One way to achieve this is to lightly sand between each coat of primer and paint you apply using fine-grit sandpaper. Sanding between each coat of primer and paint is one way to achieve the best finish for any painting project.
You can paint older oil-based paint without sanding, but it's not always the best idea. If the oil-based primer or paint is in good condition, you may be able to get away with just painting over it. However, if the paint is starting to chip or peel, you need to sand it down before painting over it.
Wood oiling is widely used for a variety of high-end finish applications, such as maintenance of countertops, oiling furniture, refinishing kitchen countertops and recoating old surfaces. Before, in-between and after the oiling, you need to ensure that the wood has been properly sanded.
From here, the oil will need a week to 10 days to start curing, and 15 days to 30 days to fully cure. Do not put the tung oiled object in direct sunlight for an extended period of time. For the first 10 days of curing, check and wipe up any tung oil that may seep to the surface.
Likewise, tung oils resist mold and mildew growth better than boiled linseed oil. In fact, a polymerized linseed oil finish is often prone to mold and mildew, requiring frequent cleaning and maintenance.
Our Experts Weigh In. Woodworking Expert - Michael Dresdner: "Yes, I would put a coat or two of oil-based polyurethane on for more durability, and it is fully compatible over the dried tung oil (or linseed oil, or any other drying oil for that matter.)
No additional sealer is needed as the tung oil naturally seals and offers waterproof protection.
This low-luster finishing oil never gets glossy, no matter how many coats of tung oil you apply, nor does it darken over time, helping your stained wood projects maintain their original appearance.
Similarly, the finish should be allowed to “breathe” during the curing process so that excess oil may seep out if needed. If this occurs, simply wipe away with a clean rag. That's it!
Color Impact. If preserving the original color of the wood is your priority, tung oil is the better option. It doesn't discolor wood, whereas teak oil can sometimes darken it, especially on porous types. Tung oil is the way to go to maintain the wood's natural appearance.
Most surfaces will require 2-3 applications; however, very porous, old, or dried up surface may require 6 or more coats. Pure Tung Oil should not be used over any existing stain or finish. Strip completely to bare wood and follow the 'NEW WOOD APPLICATION' procedures.
Look for terms like “contains petroleum distillates,” which indicate it's not pure tung oil. Application instructions: If the instructions mention wiping off excess after a short period, it's likely an oil/varnish blend. If they don't mention wiping off, it's probably a wiping varnish.
So if you're looking for a wood oil with either a matt finish, or being 100% natural and environmentally friendly is key, then Tung Oil is the best bet. Otherwise, for most surfaces we would actually recommend Danish Oil as it dries quicker and provides a harder wearing finish to wood.