A best practice is to install the toilet flange on top of the finished floor. If you install the toilet flange flush with the finished floor, or even below the finished floor, leak paths will form, because the flange won't be at the correct height to accept the horn at the bottom of the toilet.
Install the new floor first before installing the toilet. This ensures a proper and stable flooring surface, and it makes it easier to position and seal the toilet later.
the flange should be installed on the top of the finished floor (tile, vinyl, wood). as far as acceptable range, too high by even a little bit will prevent the toilet from setting on the floor (it will rock). the lower the flange, the thicker your wax ring or rings will need to be.
Step 3: Lower Toilet Flange and Add Underlayment
The easiest way to do this is to lay a piece of your vinyl plank flooring and any underlayment you'll be using, next to your toilet flange.
Should a toilet flange be flush with the floor? A toilet flange should not be leveled to the floor. Ideally, it should be about 1/4 inch above a finished floor. Installing it level or below the floor can lead to leaks.
Position the new toilet wax ring on top of the toilet flange, ensuring it is centered. Want to know more about choosing the correct wax ring size, crucial installation tips, and other frequently asked questions? Check out our Oatey 101: Wax Rings blog.
1-The Distance Between the Toilet Flange and the Wall Behind It: In order to get started, you'll need a tape measure. The water closet flange's centre should be 12 inches from the back wall. When taking this measurement, make sure you're measuring from the finished wall and not the base moulding.
A best practice is to install the toilet flange on top of the finished floor. If you install the toilet flange flush with the finished floor, or even below the finished floor, leak paths will form, because the flange won't be at the correct height to accept the horn at the bottom of the toilet.
Reasons to Caulk Around a Toilet
Moisture Prevention: Without caulk around the toilet base, external water can seep under the toilet, leading to floor and subfloor damage over time. This is especially important in bathrooms with wooden floors, as prolonged exposure to moisture can lead to rot and structural issues.
It's an a Push Tite gasketed closet flange. Simply push this down into the old closet flange and secure it to the wood subfloor with galvanized or stainless steel screws.
For the Best Look, Remove the Toilet First
Here's the truth: you're going to want to remove the toilet first and then install the flooring in order to get the best look.
You will want a high-quality, waterproof caulk specifically for bathroom use to meet the code. These caulks will withstand the extra moisture and wear of a bathroom. Silicone bathroom caulk tends to perform best for sealing toilets. It's water-resistant and flexible.
The toilet floor flange should always be installed on top of the finished floor; I prefer to seal the bowl with Phenoseal caulk, which cures to a flexible, durable watertight finish.
The cost to replace a toilet flange is $85 to $350 on average. Labor accounts for $75 to $300 for a simple flange replacement, while the toilet flange and wax ring materials cost $10 to $50.
Professional contractors generally recommend installing new flooring before placing the toilet.
Secure the new flange to the subfloor with the provided hardware. If no hardware was provided, use wood screws or cement screws, depending on your subfloor material. Slide the toilet flange bolts into the new flange. Secure them with washers and nuts.
By laying down the floor first, you protect it from potential water damage during the shower installation. It also allows for a smoother and more efficient process, as there is no need to work around the shower when fitting the flooring.
The correct measurements for a toilet is at least 21 inches in the front of the toilet, 15 inches on the sides, and at least 30 inches from anything else in the bathroom.
While a 10-inch rough-in toilet can plausibly fit into a 12-inch rough-in (though a longer connector may be needed), the same cannot be said for using a 12-inch rough-in toilet in a 10-inch rough-in. A 12” rough-in toilet will not fit in a bathroom with a 10” rough-in size.
Plumbers can install toilets so the tank is snug against a wall, but this requires quite a bit of planning. What's more, if the tank is tight against the wall, the tank lid might not fit well because the lids are larger than the tank and often have an overhanging rear lip. It's easy to keep peace in these situations.