Most stains will be fine because freezing doesn't affect color. Some of the dyes will coagulate. The best advice... don't let water finishes freeze. Once frozen, most water based finishes such as
If they're water-based, freezing can partially cure the finish by pulling some of the water out of the emulsion into ice crystals. That will reduce its bonding ability and it may flake off and fail in just a year or two. If it's a clear finish, you can also have a problem with it curing cloudy.
Low temperature is less important than moisture, with the exception that if there is frozen water in your wood, that'll mess up the stain as well. If the wood is cold but stays dry, you should be ok.
To tell if it is still good, start with a visual inspection. Discard finishes that have become thick, rubbery, stringy or separated, as well as those with a skunky odor or obvious mold growth. Ditto for water-based paint or finish that looks like cottage cheese.
For the most part, both oil-based and water-based wood stains should be stored in a climate- controlled location, where the temperature will not drop below 32 degrees Fahrenheit and put the stains at risk of freezing and thawing.
Modified oil or water reduceable alkyd-based deck stains will freeze. While true oil-based deck stains will not freeze.
How warm does it need to be stain wood? The minimum temperature for staining wood is around 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Even then, some oil-based stains might work, as they generally take longer to dry, even in cold weather. Moreover, a temperature that is too high is also problematic.
Often when people restain timber, the old Stain is either sanded away, is already flaking off, or can be restained over. While you can restain a deck over an existing stain without sanding or removing the existing peeling product, this isn't always recommended and can leave your deck looking a little worse for wear.
Cold weather will not permanently harm urethane, silicone or epoxy materials. It can cause these materials to thicken and separate. If you try to use the material while it is too cold, it will not cure.
Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to ensure an even surface. Wipe away any dust with a tack cloth. Reapply the stain liberally, working in small sections. Immediately wipe off the excess with a clean rag, moving in the direction of the wood grain.
A surface that is too cold (as well as air temperatures that are too low) will interfere with coalescence (cure) of the coating, which can lead to premature adhesion failures (cracking and peeling) and less durability. A surface that's too hot to touch is generally too hot to stain.
Temperature and humidity
Low air temperatures and high relative humidity slow evaporation and increase the length of time your wood project will remain tacky. Before starting your wood project, make sure the temperature will remain above 65° F and the humidity around 50% during both application and the drying process.
Temperature-Sensitive Items
Paint, refinishing solvents and stain in garage storage will spoil. Some paints separate, and you'll be left with a curdled, unusable mess. Also, paint cans sitting on a cement garage floor will rust through very quickly.
If it rains within 48 hours of applying a treatment, the water will soak into the wood, and try and displace the stain. This can cause a blotchy, flaky look, rather than a smooth, even, coat. If it rains immediately after you've stained the wood, the stain will peel and flake off.
Oil-based stains dry to the touch after 12 to 48 hours and fully dry in 72 hours. Gel stains take longer than any other type of stain to dry. The stain dries to the touch in 24 hours and fully dries in a week. Lacquer quickly dries in 15 minutes.
It can hinder the curing process if it drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit before the stain has thoroughly dried. If it's too cold, your stain won't penetrate the deck's wood, and the adhesion process will be compromised.
Why Freezing is a Problem. When stains freeze, the pigments and binders can separate, leading to uneven consistency. Once separated, even thorough mixing may not restore the stain's original quality. This is a key concern for those learning how to store stain during winter.
Typical Values. In general, polyurethane can be used in the temperature range of -62°C to 93°C (-80°F to 200°F). Special formulations can extend polyurethane's performance reach to as high as 150°C (300°F).
Most stains will be fine because freezing doesn't affect color. Some of the dyes will coagulate. The best advice... don't let water finishes freeze. Once frozen, most water based finishes such as General Finishes High Performance Water Base Topcoat are no longer useable.
You can also leave the wet stain on the wood for longer before you wipe away the excess - sometimes as long as 15 minutes. This may help you achieve a deeper color. Note: check the label directions for the particular stain you're using to see the maximum time you can wait before wiping off the excess stain.
Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. There's no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish!
The longer the stain is left on, the deeper and richer the color will be. For consistent color, use careful timing.
For best results, wait until it's dry to the touch, then you can apply poly. It will usually take at least 12 hours. A polyurethane finish can be applied the day after. If it isn't dry, the pigments will show up in your poly and have a significant impact on the finish.
While conventional stains recommend 18 to 24 hours drying time, Minwax Performance Series Tintable Wood Stain can be recoated in just 2 hours for solvent-based finishes and 6 hours for water-based finishes.
Check items before drying or ironing: Remember that heat can dry out stains and result in them setting.