Yes, you can turn a heat pump off, but whether you should depends on the season and how long you will be away.
Most air-source and water-source heat pumps will become less efficient when temperatures drop below their respective ranges. That is -13°F (air source heat pump) or 45°F (water source).
In outdoor temperatures above 30 degrees, the heat pump should cycle off and on like a normal furnace. Somewhere between 20 and 30 degrees outdoor temperature, the heat pump will reach a “balance point” where the heat needed by the home is equal to the heat supplied by the heat pump. So now it will run all the time.
Turning a heat pump off at night can be inefficient, as it forces the system to work harder to recover the lost heat. Instead, using a setback temperature – a slightly lower setting during off peak hours- can save energy without reducing comfort.
The best temperature to set a heat pump in the winter is 68°F (20°C) when you are awake and at home. This temperature strikes the perfect balance between comfort and energy efficiency.
No, 68°F is not generally considered cold for a house in winter. In fact, experts at the U.S. Department of Energy recommend 68°F as the ideal, energy-efficient temperature for the winter months while you are awake.
It takes time for your home to warm up and cool down. If you're not sure how long it takes, try turning the heating on about 30 minutes before you need it. You should turn it off 30 minutes before you'll stop needing it.
Most heat pumps should complete about two to three cycles per hour, with ten to twenty minutes of downtime between each cycle. If you notice your system cycling too frequently or not enough, it could indicate an underlying issue that needs attention.
If your heat pump is unexpectedly expensive to run, the most common culprits are inefficient auxiliary/backup heat, high local electricity rates, or a system that isn't sized properly.
There are two entirely different HVAC concepts known as the "20-degree rule" for heat pumps. The first is a user guideline that suggests setting your thermostat no more than 20∘F above or below the outdoor temperature. The second is an equipment metric referring to the system's "temperature split" or output efficiency.
When your heat pump runs continuously during the winter, it might seem like something's wrong—but in reality, it's often functioning exactly as designed. Heat pumps rely on drawing heat from the outdoor air, and as temperatures drop—especially below 30°F—they need to run longer to keep your home warm.
Your auxiliary heat, or secondary heat source, should come on when your heat pump is struggling to heat your home effectively. The thermostat will trigger auxiliary heat when: The outside temperature is below 40 degrees or a set aux heat trigger temperature. The heat pump is in defrost mode.
Typically, a properly sized furnace will run for about 10–15 minutes per cycle during colder months. If your furnace turns on every few minutes, it may be short cycling, which can indicate issues such as a clogged filter, blocked vents, or an oversized unit.
No, You Should Not Turn off Your Heat Pump when It Gets Cold
Even on a cold day, the heat pump can draw some warmth out of the air, enabling it to generate three to four times the amount of heat as what would have been produced by the same amount of fuel consumed.
Is 72 a good temperature for heat in the winter? While slightly higher than the typical energy-saving range of 68°F–70°F, 72°F still offers a reasonable balance between comfort and efficiency.
We would normally recom- mend 18–22°C for a com- fortable environment, but if you prefer your home on the warmer side then we suggest the 22°C mark. Setting a higher temperature is not rec- ommended as the heat pump will work hard to achieve this temperature potentially increasing power usage.
This is especially true if your house has a heat pump. Heat pumps are most efficient until temperatures fall below 30 degrees outside. Once the temps dip below that, heat pumps can't run as efficiently to keep up with the cold, and backup electricity often kicks on.
An overcharged heat pump means there is too much refrigerant in the system, which elevates operating pressures and stresses the mechanical components. Common symptoms include diminished heating and cooling output, unusually high electricity bills, frequent system shutdowns, and sweating or frosted-over lines near the compressor.
In most homes, Heating and Cooling (HVAC) systems drive the highest energy costs, accounting for nearly 40% to 50% of your total electricity bill. Following these, the appliances that run up your bill the most include water heaters, refrigerators, and laundry machines.
Outdoor Heat Pump Unit Freezing
One common problem is the outdoor unit freezing when temperatures drop too low. Ice buildup can obstruct airflow, reducing the unit's ability to capture heat. Most heat pumps have a defrost cycle to handle this, which usually solves the problem.
A typical furnace runs for approximately 10 to 15 minutes per cycle, cycling three to eight times per hour. A short cycling system runs for less than five minutes, then quickly restarts, often cycling much more frequently. This pattern prevents efficient heating and creates massive strain on your equipment.
The top heat pump brands vary based on your specific climate, budget, and system needs. Industry experts consistently rank Carrier, Bosch, Mitsubishi, Lennox, and Trane as the best overall choices for efficiency, reliability, and smart-home integration.
For most customers, we recommend turning on your furnace when the weather is consistently below 18° Celsius, which usually happens to be around the end of September, or early October. Some homeowners try to put off turning on their furnace as long as they can to save money, which is okay if you're healthy adults.
Heating and energy expert Stephen Hankinson said that one "big energy cost saver" is to make sure you have your heating off when you're not at home. For instance, if you typically arrive home from work at around 6pm on weekdays, you could set your heating to activate just as you walk through the door.
Heating and cooling (HVAC) systems are the biggest energy consumers in a typical house, accounting for roughly 45−50% of your total electricity usage. Water heaters, refrigerators, and lighting round out the rest of the major draws.