Late winter is a good time to prune most plants. Because plants and their pests are dormant this time of year, pruning cuts can be made without the risk of pests and pathogens entering the tree through the wound.
Pruning in Winter Causes Less Stress for Trees
Research shows that pruning before buds open in spring leads to “optimum wound closure.” Trees are able to heal from pruning cuts before warmer weather brings out destructive insects and pathogens.
A good rule of thumb is that if the plant blooms on new growth, it can be pruned in winter, before the new season's growth begins and after the final bloom of the year. Be careful with spring-blooming shrubs—those usually can't be pruned in winter without damaging the flower buds and ruining the blooming season.
Winter Pruning is Less Stressful for Your Trees
Pruning during the active growing season can cause stress for your trees and can stimulate additional growth that won't be able to harden before the temperature drops. Trees go dormant during the winter months, making it the perfect time to prune.
For most trees, the best time for major pruning is late winter to early spring because wounds close faster. Pruning in late summer and early fall may also stimulate new growth, which has little time to harden before cold weather comes.
Don't prune too late in northern regions.
In areas with cold winters, avoid pruning after the middle of August. If you prune too late, you may stimulate new growth that would not have time to grow thick, protective bark before the killing frosts of winter.
In fact, it is better to prune a little at a time than to make drastic cuts. For plants that shed their leaves (deciduous plants), the best time for winter pruning is from the beginning of November to the end of February. To prune evergreens you can start later, from mid-December, and continue until February.
You will want to prune your trees when the temperatures are going to be fairly constant for at least a couple of weeks. If you trim your trees when the temperature is 60 degrees, and overnight, the temperature drops below freezing, your trees could be damaged.
April, May and June are not good months to prune because deciduous trees need to use their stored energy to produce new leaves instead of healing wounds. Also, pruning during warmer spring months encourages the spread of diseases such as Oak Wilt and damage by pests such as Emerald Ash Borer.
When is Late Winter? Late winter is 4 to 6 weeks before spring thaw begins. This could be any time in January to May, depending on your climate. Use your average last frost date and count back.
Winter pruning is good for your plants, leaving them with extra root and energy reserves to quickly heal wounds and support vigorous Spring growth that will obscure the pruning cuts. Winter pruning is also good for you, giving you a reason to go outside on a mild Winter day to enjoy your landscape.
Many ornamental shrubs bloom on new growth that emerges in spring. These are pruned in late winter: beautyberry, butterfly bush, clethra, crapemyrtle, panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata), smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens), roses, and rose of Sharon. Shape barberry, dogwood, and deciduous holly as needed.
To avoid certain diseases, pruning in the late winter is especially great. Avoid Oak Wilt disease by pruning oaks between November and March.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
As a general rule, prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they flower. Prune trees that bloom in the summer or fall in late winter or early spring before the end of their dormancy. Routine pruning of dead or dying branches can be done at any time.
Maples. Along with birches, elms, and other so-called "bleeder" trees, pruning maples in winter can lead to a great deal of sap. Wait until summer to avoid a possible mess.
Pruning during the growing season always stimulates new growth. During summer's heat, having to produce that ill-timed new flush of growth greatly stresses a tree. Pruning in the fall is even worse as it prevents the tree from going into a natural dormancy. The exception is heavily damaged, disease or dead wood.
ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.
It is best to wait until the trees have been exposed to freezing temperatures and until the leaves have begun to turn yellow before beginning early dormant pruning. Keep a watchful eye on the long range forecast and suspend pruning when a severe drop in temperature is forecast.
The best time of year to cut down a tree would be during winter or early spring when the leaves have all fallen and the branches are free from them. You may worry that the frozen ground would make it more difficult to remove a tree, but the fact is, warm earth is more easily disturbed.
Overgrown trees can pose a serious risk to your property and your family. Dead or damaged branches can fall and cause damage to your home or car or even injure someone. In addition, overgrown trees can block sunlight and views and can even damage foundations or driveways.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
The period between the full and new moon (third and fourth quarters) is best for harvesting, slowing growth, etc.
Winter pruning is analogous to pouring the foundation and framing the house: it creates the tree's structure, form, and extent. Summer pruning is all about “finish work”: trim, tile, cabinetry, etc. It refines form and keeps the interior of the tree open to sunlight, which is vital to fruit production.