Brush or Roller? Yes! The fastest, most effective way to apply exterior paint is with both a paintbrush and a roller. Brush paint onto narrow surfaces, edges, and smaller areas, and use a short, small-diameter roller to paint large and long surfaces such as siding and trim.
Professional painters typically use both brushes and rollers when painting. Brushes are used to apply paint in tight spaces or areas with intricate details, while rollers are used for larger surfaces like walls and ceilings.
You absolutely want to use a brush for most exterior surfaces, and definitely the siding and trim. The only time to ever use a roller is on a large flat surface (think drywall, or plywood paneling) -- in the image you provided I might use a roller for the white soffit, but that's it and only if it's a large house.
Choosing the correct brush or roller will come down to the surface you are painting and the type of paint being used. If you are looking to complete a small paint job, go for a paint brush. If you want to evenly cover a large surface at once, choose a paint roller instead.
The porous surface of the roller holds much more paint than a brush and distributes an even layer of paint much faster. Different finishes can be achieved with different rollers: Rollers with a smooth surface will produce a smooth finish.
If you're working on a large project, then paint rollers will definitely be the way to go as they can cover more surface area in less time. However, if you're working on a smaller project or one that requires more precision, then paint brushes might be the better choice.
Key Takeaways: Cut-in and painting on the same day are recommended for the best results. Wait for the trim to dry completely before painting to avoid an uneven finish.
A quality roller will leave a smooth finish with no fibre residue and can complete your project faster. But keep in mind, you still need to cut in around the ceilings, floors and hard to reach areas that a roller cover can't reach. That's where brushes can be your best friend.
Many painters “break in” a roller cover by priming it with water or thinner. In our lab we never prewet a cover before painting. If you choose to, you must spin it out with five or six strong pumps so it is only lightly damp. Then take even more moisture out by blotting the cover with a paper towel.
Some professionals recommend using paint pads instead of rollers for smooth surfaces. Because there is no rolling action, there is less paint splatter, and the regular shape of the pad means you can paint into corners and edges, so there is less cutting in to be done.
Method to prevent roller marks
One is to make sure the paint is mixed well before using it. Another is to use a high-quality roller cover and make sure it's in good condition. When rolling the paint on, start at the top and work your way down. Apply even pressure and avoid going over the same area multiple times.
A five gallon bucket of paint will therefore cover approximately 1500–2000 square feet. If you are using a sprayer, estimate that it will cover closer to 300 feet than 400 feet to account for overspray.
When a home is being built you will see professional painters using a paint sprayer. Most of the time this is because there is very little to mask off because there's no furniture and typically no flooring in the space. But in addition to spraying professional painters will also back roll.
Walls, Wood, and Metal - Small 1/4″ roller covers or foam rollers will produce the smoothest finish. Light to Medium Textured Surfaces - Microfiber rollers are best. Smooth Surfaces - Use a white woven short nap roller for an ultra fine finish.
Always cut in first then continue painting with a roller. Cut in and paint with a roller one wall at a time. If you cut in all areas first and then roll the entire room, the paint that was applied when cutting in will have dried quicker and you will be left with a patchy, uneven finish.
Use a liner brush and clean up the edges of your stroke. Also, you can use a dry brush or another type of brush with a smaller tip to blend in your strokes.
Not Fully Loading the Roller
The roller needs to be fully loaded with paint to the core, otherwise you'll get air bubbles on your wall, resulting in “paint acne.” To avoid this mistake, roll back and forth on the roller tray until all bubbles are gone and the roller feels heavy.
Dabbing painters tape against the roller cover is an easy way to work free any extra fibers. Once your the cover is lint free you're ready to begin painting.
You want to use even, consistent pressure when painting. Remember, pressing too hard will leave behind roller-edge streaks. Not pressing hard enough will lead to inconsistent paint coverage. Practice on a loose piece of drywall to get the feel down before painting your wall.
Use your whole arm when applying paint. With a brush you can go into and over any texture, which is particularly useful if the surface of the wall isn't totally flat. Use the same brush again for cutting in along the ceiling edge of a wall and in the corners of the room.
White China—These natural bristle brushes are best used with oil-based paints, especially enamels and varnishes. Ideal for woodwork, enamels, or marine applications, White China bristles virtually eliminate brush marks.
Similarly to the approach with the ceiling, start painting your walls at the top, cut in around the edges and cover your fixtures with tape before cutting in around those.
It's typically best to embark on your painting endeavor in the morning, precisely between 8 a.m. and 12 p.m. This recommendation comes with a practical justification; as the day progresses, temperatures invariably rise, resulting in better and faster drying times.
Work from the top of the room down, starting with the ceilings. Planning a bold focal wall? Paint the adjoining light-colored walls first. “Don't worry if you get paint on what will be your accent wall—the dark paint will cover up whatever lighter paint found its way there.