If you have a concrete subfloor, then you should glue your hardwood down, if you have a wooden subfloor then you can choose either method of installation. However, if you are planning on fitting your hardwood floor to joists, then you will need to secret nail them into place.
If you are trying to decide between the two, then for engineered wood flooring floating is usually the best option as you can install it quickly and don't have to worry about which glue to use and how long to wait for it to dry. If you are installing hardwood flooring then using glue may give you a more stable result.
We recommend and encourage a glue assist for all nailed down floors, especially if you are nailing down a thin floor, a solid or engineered floor that is 5” or wider, or one installed in an environment with moisture swings. These types of floors are more likely to have problems with squeaks.
Glued down engineered wood flooring is the most popular method of installation, and we always recommend this options because it's the more stable option out of the two.
Nails allow for a more natural expansion and contraction of the hardwood floorboards with fewer problems. Because stapled floorboards are fastened tighter; the hardwoods may be more prone to cracking in response to changes in moisture because they cannot contract or expand as well as nailed floorboards.
If you have a concrete subfloor, then you should glue your hardwood down, if you have a wooden subfloor then you can choose either method of installation. However, if you are planning on fitting your hardwood floor to joists, then you will need to secret nail them into place.
Engineered flooring lends itself especially well to staples, with a thinner profile and more advanced structure. Some installers claim that cleats create a tighter fit than staples. When swelling occurs due to high humidity levels, a tight fit lessens the risk of gaps and warping.
Engineered hardwood flooring can resist warping from changes in temperature much better than solid hardwood flooring, so you only need to wait a day before walking on it.
You can remove glued-down wood flooring from the subfloor or concrete by cutting the boards into more manageable pieces and pulling each free with a pry bar, chisel, hammer, or scrapers. Afterward, you have the option to either re-use the wood or dispose of the material.
Don't Glue Tongue and Grooves
This is because wood flooring needs room to move as it expands. If the wood is glued both to the subfloor and between the planks, there's no room for movement. In the long-run, limited movement leads to cracks, disfigurement and warping of your wood flooring.
Many wood flooring manufacturers opt not to provide glue-assist guidelines at all. Further contributing to potentially confusing or absent instructions from manufacturers is the fact that glue-assist is not a requirement, but simply an optional aid for flooring installation.
Apply a 1/4 –inch continuous line (bead) of construction adhesive such as LIQUID NAILS® Subfloor and Deck Construction Adhesive (LN-902) along joists before laying your chosen flooring. When laying hard floors, you will need to apply the adhesive as you work across the floor, one board at a time.
Underlays are helpful for any type of engineered wood flooring. While you can install engineered wood floors without an underlayment, the extra support and insulation add a lot to a room. To get the most out of your underlayment, you'll have to look into which materials work best with the type of wood floor you have.
If you have solid hardwood or engineered wood floorboards, the creak might be caused by the floorboards rubbing against each other. Squirt powdered graphite between the boards, then lightly rub the product into the seams with a soft brush or cloth.
Glue-down floors are better for rooms with heavy load and foot traffic because they're more stable. On the other hand, floating floors have more room for warping and buckling that are triggered by changing temperature and moisture levels in the room.
Floating laminate floors can move with temperature, and gluing down the planks can damage them. If installing in a wet area, like a bathroom, you should glue the laminate planks to seal the tongue and groove seams from moisture.
Can You Refinish Engineered Hardwood Flooring? Refinishing can restore your floor's appearance and make it look new. Still, the refinishing process is only suitable for some engineered hardwood floors. Refinishing is often followed after sanding your engineered hardwood floors.
National and local companies today generally charge between $ 2.50 and $ 3.50 per square foot.
Engineered hardwood typically lasts between 20 and 30 years. Because they do have a top layer of hardwood, like solid hardwood, they are susceptible to scratches. If scratch resistance is important to you, look for engineered hardwood floors with a scratch-resistant top coat.
If your hardwood floors have been sanded and finished with Bona Mega Clear HD, it is safe to sleep in the home about 2-3 hours after the project is finished, but again, only if there are other rooms that have not been robbed of their furniture – furniture should stay off floors for at least 24 hours after ANY project ...
Glue Down Installation
Engineered wood flooring should be fully-bonded to the prepared sub-floor using a suitable MS Polymer Flexible Wood Flooring Adhesive. We recommend & supply Bona RS48. This should be applied using a notched trowel (please follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions for trowel notch size).
The nail spacing schedule varies by board type but you always nail down the ends of each board and space nails between 6, 8, or 10 inches apart. Always read and follow the flooring manufacturers guide and recommendations.
A brad nailer is one way to install engineered hardwood. Engineered hardwood is a solid wood floor product that is manufactured from thin layers of hardwood laminated together to provide planks with good durability and incredible dimensional consistency.
in theory yes it will work. you want to ensure that the boards are tight together and that you nail angles back and down into the joists and countersunk.