Generally speaking, vapor barriers are considered an essential moisture-blocking tool for climates that experience significant levels of humidity. For that reason, building codes in more humid locations will often require them, in which case you might not have much say about whether to install one or not.
In Most Cases, Attic Insulation Does Not Need To Provide A Vapor Barrier. The good news is that blown-in insulation should not need a vapor barrier. Blown-in is primarily used on the attic floor, and vapor barriers are not a concern for attics in our climate zone.
“For minor projects, the absence of a vapor barrier leads to water intrusion, leading to an unstable foundation or a cracked slab.” The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) outlines national standards for underslab vapor barriers.
Definitely do not add a plastic barrier between insulation layers. And as suggested above, make every effort to seal any openings where warm moist house air can leak into the attic. Vents, chimneys, wiring holes, etc. And do not cut off attic ventilation during the winter.
Attic Ventilation
area shall be no less than 1/150 of the attic floor area if no vapor retarders are used, or 1/300 of the attic floor area when a vapor retarder having a permeance of one perm or less is used.
Depending on where you live, the vapour barrier will either go on the inner surface of the insulation (if you live in a cold climate) or the outer surface of the insulation (if you live in a hot climate). It's safe to say that a vapour barrier will be needed for almost all projects.
When calculating how much attic ventilation you need, your roofer will either use the 1/150 or 1/300 rule. The one they use determines how much Net Free Ventilation Area (open area for air to pass through) you'll need for every 150 or 300 square feet of attic space.
You can use plastic if you put polyethylene between your drywall and the wall studs. This way, you should get a tighter wall without trapping moisture inside the exterior walls. If you are framing out a below-grade basement, however, do not use plastic as a vapor barrier.
Can I put plywood over insulation in the attic? Yes you can install plywood subflooring directly over the floor joists and insulation on your floor. You need to install rigid insulation boards on top of the attic flooring joists and then install plywood over the top.
Unfaced insulation is great for new construction, remodels, walls, floors, ceilings, basements, attics and crawlspaces. It's best used for interior wall applications that do not face the outside and also in rooms that don't need moisture control, like living rooms, dining rooms and studies.
Because a vapor barrier is a low permeable barrier, it keeps moisture from passing through. This is beneficial to keep moisture away from a dry surface but will trap moisture behind it if installed on a water-damaged concrete wall, causing the wall to fail further.
Materials such as rigid foam insulation, reinforced plastics, aluminum, and stainless steel are relatively resistant to water vapor diffusion. These types of vapor retarders are usually mechanically fastened and sealed at the joints.
Is DuPont™ Tyvek® a vapor barrier? No, DuPont™ Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.
After the insulation is in place you will want to add a vapor retarder, sometimes called a vapor barrier, if you need one. Not every wall does. A vapor retarder is a material used to prevent water vapor from diffusing into the wall, ceiling or floor during the cold winter.
In order for insulation to do its job, sufficient airflow to the outside surfaces is required. Good ventilation in your attic will allow the moisture to get out. An attic that is well ventilated will reduce the roof surface temperature and eliminate moisture.
For that reason, building codes in more humid locations will often require them, in which case you might not have much say about whether to install one or not. In drier climates, however, attic vapor barriers can be more of an optional add-on than they would be elsewhere.
Also, when laying down additional insulation, work from the perimeter toward the attic opening. Never lay insulation over recessed light fixtures or soffit vents. Keep all insulation at least 3 inches away from recessed "can" lights, unless they are rated IC (Insulated Ceiling).
In the winter, attic condensation often turns into frost, which actually doesn't pose any threat. However, when the frost melts, it turns back into condensation, which makes everything it touches wet –usually insulation and wood.
A vapor barrier is likely required if the building is cladded with absorptive material and if the structure is in United States climate zones 4C, 5 through 8.
Even if the attic space is unheated, it's typically warmer than the outside air in winter. If you have chosen unfaced batting insulation for your rafters, you should staple sheets of plastic over the batting to accomplish a moisture barrier.
Encapsulation Vapor Barrier Thickness Matters. A typical painters plastic is 6-mil or less, and is usually only 0.5 mil. This type of plastic is used to create barriers between rooms. Water restoration companies will use 0.5 mil but many times use a 6-mil plastic to create containment areas.
This rule means, at least half of your attic space must be 7 feet high by 7 feet wide, with a total of 70 square feet. Keep in mind, codes vary from place to place, but for using the attic as an actual room, this rule typically applies.
The minimum attic venting requirement for an attic without a vapor barrier is 1 square foot of net free vent area for every 150 square feet of attic floor space.
Ridge Vents are popular. They work well because they provide even ventilation across the whole attic. They are installed along the roof's peak, allowing hot air to escape naturally without the need for power.