Arrange the wood in a single layer in a fryer basket, dip them in a tub of dye solution for a set amount of time (you'll have to experiment to find the time that gives you the color you need), take them out to let them dry.
Use a good-quality paint pad applicator that does not lose bristles to spread the stain on large surfaces. We used a Shur-Line pad applicator. Keep the leading edge of your finish wet as you work across the surface. Use a cotton terry towel to wipe away excess stain.
Do You Have to Sand Before Staining Wood? Wood needs to be sanded well before it can be stained. The process opens up the wood's pores to better absorb the stain. It also smoothes away scratches in the surface which will only be enhanced by stain.
Brushing is the slowest method of applying stain. So not only might you get blotching or lap marks, you're also wasting time. It's more efficient to wipe stain than to brush it, and you're less likely to have color problems.
Stain can be applied with a bristle brush, a foam brush, or a cloth. On woods with large, open pores, such as oak, mahogany and ash, increase your pressure to work the stain into the pores. Apply a liberal amount of stain, giving the wood an ample amount to absorb.
A smaller white China bristle brush, or any other natural brush for oil-based stains, works perfectly for cutting edges and other tight spaces. Note: If applying a water-based or hybrid stain, make sure you use synthetic bristle brushes for the best result.
Avoid Over Application
People are often mistaken in thinking that applying more coats will make the stain more durable, and therefore last longer. However, oversaturation will create a thick film on the surface that will flake and peel off in a matter of weeks.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
Leave the original stain in place if you want to stain the piece a darker color. If you're going from a light stain to a dark stain, there's no need to strip away the existing stain first. However, keep in mind that the existing stain may alter the color of the finished product.
With staining, you'll know if you've over-applied your deck stain because there will be sticky patches or puddles that just aren't drying—the wood has absorbed all it can, so the remaining stain has nowhere to go.
Staining Wet-on-wet:
This prevents creating two layers of paint as well as different color at the overlap and at the same time helps you avoid unattractive lap marks. You can also work slowly and remove the paintbrush from the wooden deck gradually at the time when it runs out of stain.
With 5 gallons of deck stain, you can cover around 875 ft2 of deck area. This result is an approximation — it depends on the type of wood and the number of coats you plan to apply.
This wood stain dramatically changes the natural color of the wood. I use salvaged pallet wood all the time and find that the rusty vinegar reacts well with it. In these photos I show how a light colored hardwood turns black with just one coat.
The Golden Rule of Sanding
The golden rule for choosing your sequence is to never skip more than 1 grit. For example, if you start with P80, and need to finish at P240, rather than using every grit from P80 – P220, you can do P80 – P120 – P180 – P240. This sequence cuts out P100, P150 and P220.
To know when you are done sanding, look at the wood in a low-angle reflected light. Or wet the wood then look at it from different angles. Before you apply your finish, raise the grain by wiping the surface with water. Then sand lightly to remove the nubs from the raised grain.
Using a stain pad apply the stain evenly in the direction of the grain, two or three boards at a time, moving from end to end. Continue to the exposed ends. Allow the stain to dry for one to two hours before applying a second coat.
If you have oil-based stains (which dries slower), brushing or spraying large areas could work, but lacquer and water-based stains simply dry too fast. This could result in imprints of the bristles on your wood surface. You won't have that problem when you apply and finish staining with lint-free cloth wipers.
Applying the second coat too soon can result in peeling or uneven coloration, while waiting too long may hinder absorption. Manufacturer Guidelines: Most stains recommend waiting at least 4 hours between coats or until the first coat is completely dry.
Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off. Be sure to wipe off all the excess stain going in the direction of the grain of the wood.
Rollers are a great way to apply wood stain as well for the speed at which you can apply the stain. However, when using rollers can be a disadvantage when you have hard to reach areas. If you are going to use a roller to apply your stain, make sure to have a brush as well for those hard to reach areas.
Some ingredients in both stains and finishes settle over time, but shaking will only add unwanted bubbles—and may not mix the ingredients thoroughly. Always stir until all settlement is evenly dispersed.
For staining and finishing, pieces of old t-shirt also work well applying the stain or finishes. On some projects, I used go through several brushes during the finishing process. now I just cut down a small piece from a old T-shirt and use it to apply the finishes.