To achieve a smooth finish when painting cabinets, use a high-quality brush or a foam roller for even coverage. Sand between coats, use a satin or gloss finish, and allow each layer to dry completely before applying the next.
To get the smoothest finish on your kitchen cabinetry, a thorough sanding before painting and using a paint sprayer is your best bet. The next best thing is to use a very fine sanding sponge in between coats of primer and paint to smooth out your rolled or brushed surface for the ultimate smooth look.
rough interior is from overspray. Normally when you paint cabinets you do it on saw horses with the backs removed to limit the amount of overspray you get. Take a piece of white printer paper and rub it on the rough areas. This will smooth it out a little but don't expect miracles.
If the brush strokes are particularly bad, and there isn't a ton of paint layers to sand down, cover the brush strokes with a thin layer of lightweight Spackle. When the spackle is dry, but not too hard, you can sand it using dry sandpaper.
The two best paint rollers for a smooth finish is a High Density Foam Roller with a Rounded Edge and a Lint Free Low Nap Roller, but I will say that even though both of these are good rollers one wins the prize for the smoothest finish.
Alec Willard, another Purdy professional painter, recommends using a 2-inch bristle brush when painting the small, inside planes of the cabinet base, then finishing the area with a 3/8-inch mini roller.
One of the most essential tools to have is a paint roller for a smooth finish. DIY enthusiasts and professionals have grown fond of using high-density foam rollers. This makes them a great choice is their ability to provide a flawless, smooth surface, making them ideal for use on cabinets and furniture.
Avoiding roller marks is easier than preventing brush marks–just add enough paint to the roller and overlap each stroke of the roller whenever possible. Once you've applied the first coat, check your work thoroughly for any paint drips and brush marks and rectify them before the paint dries.
A nylon 2.5” angled brush is the professional choice for a smooth, even finish.
There are a few ways to fix paint brush strokes. You can use a thinner to make the paint flow more smoothly. Use a liner brush and clean up the edges of your stroke. Also, you can use a dry brush or another type of brush with a smaller tip to blend in your strokes.
A semi-gloss finish is ideal for the kitchen because it cleans easily and withstands years of use. It also resists mold and mildew. Satin: This finish is less likely to show any scuffs and is easier to clean than an eggshell finish. This increased resistance against wear and tear makes it more durable in the kitchen.
For oil paint you can add FLOOD'S PENETROL or XIM'S X-TENDER. For latex paint you can add FLOOD'S FLOETROL, XIM'S LATEX X-TENDER or WATER MIXED 8 PARTS PAINT AND 1 PART WATER. If rolling, stay away from foam roller and mohair rollers, they may tend to bubble the finish.
To ensure a smooth finish, you'll want to use a brush with very soft bristles that won't leave brush marks. You can also use a thin nap paint roller for a smooth finish, provided your surface is flat and doesn't have any nooks and crannies. It's also important to use painter's tape when painting.
The most likely reason your painted cabinets feel rough is that they didn't get the full sanding they needed before the lacquer went on. A few rough patches here and there can be lightly sanded with 220-grit sandpaper and painted over for a quick fix.
We usually use professional-grade lacquer because it has a lovely, silky-smooth feel to it, and is what cabinet manufacturers use. We think it's the best paint for cabinets, hands-down (although there are some great pro-level water-based options as well).
The semi-gloss finish is a popular choice among homeowners and interior designers alike due to its higher levels of resin content, which gives them greater durability compared with satin options. This type of finish offers numerous benefits that make it an excellent option for kitchen cabinets.
You'll apply primer first with a brush to “cut in” those hard-to-reach crevices and edges, then go back over the surface with a roller. After your primer is dry, sand everything gently with 220-grit sandpaper. Remove dust with a tack cloth or compressed air, and get ready to paint.
Soft Nylon & Polyester—Use this type of bristle for all paints, especially semi-gloss and satin finishes. They provide extra flex for smooth application, leave few brush marks, and have an excellent paint capacity.
Cabinet Painting with a Roller & a Brush
On the fronts and backs of drawers and doors, you can use a roller. This will apply the paint in a more smooth and even manner and is much faster than only using a paint brush. Then, use a brush for touching up small areas or for hard-to-reach spots.
Also, a second coat of paint helps remove roller marks by allowing you to feather out some of the unevenness in the finish. You can do this by overlapping the uneven areas to create a more uniform finish.
When painting larger cabinet surfaces like doors and drawer fronts, it's essential to maintain a “wet edge.” This means overlapping your brush strokes slightly while the paint is still wet. This technique helps to blend the brush marks and achieve a smoother finish.
Patchy paint can result if paint has been applied unevenly. Patchy paint can be down to a variation in surface absorption. Walls might appear patchy if they have variation in texture. Using paint that is not fully mixed can cause a patchy appearance.
Walls, Wood, and Metal - Small 1/4″ roller covers or foam rollers will produce the smoothest finish. Light to Medium Textured Surfaces - Microfiber rollers are best.
There are certain conditions and circumstances where use of a foam roller could be detrimental or damaging to a person's body. Foam rolling exercises load and stress the underlying tissues, including nerves, skin receptors, blood and lymphatic vessels, as well as bones.
Many painters “break in” a roller cover by priming it with water or thinner. In our lab we never prewet a cover before painting. If you choose to, you must spin it out with five or six strong pumps so it is only lightly damp. Then take even more moisture out by blotting the cover with a paper towel.