After it cures you may use a paste wax for wood with a 0000 steel wool applicator. It will wax and dull the shine at the same time.
Sand it straight line or do it by hand in straight lines with steel wool or sandpaper - that's real elbow grease!
Take any alkyd or polyurethane oil varnish and apply it to the wood without thinning. Don't worry about the sheen level printed on the can. The process of wiping off the finish will make it appear flat, and it will remain that way as it dries. Thus, you can use gloss, satin or flat varnish and still get the same look.
If you want to change the sheen, you can re-coat with a different sheen over top. The second layer of top coat will replace the appearance of the first. Sand lightly with a used 220 sanding PAD to knock down the original finish before re-coating. It may take two or 3 coats to get complete coverage.
Urethane finishes are hard and require a scotchbrite pad or 1200-1600 grit wet sanding to dull them.
Flat or matte polyurethane leaves the least shiny coating and conveys the look of natural, unfinished wood. Satin polyurethane has a low to medium sheen that helps conceal dirt and scratches, making it popular for flooring. Semi-gloss polyurethane and gloss polyurethane have a higher level of sheen and reflectivity.
Polyurethane can help make your wood surfaces look smooth and glassy, but it may feel a bit bumpy or uneven at first. To create a completely polished surface, it may be worth it to sand the surface of your wood. Buff the surface with car polish for a shiny finish or use paste wax for a satin finish.
Using sandpaper
If you plan on removing the varnish and then painting the wood, sanding can be an effective way to get rid of the varnish while prepping the wood at the same time. It's also a natural and chemical-free way to remove varnish.
The best option is to use a varnish or lacquer to give the wood a high gloss finish. While varnish can be sprayed or brushed on, lacquer is best applied by simple spraying. Spraying makes the surface seem finer than painting as it doesn't leave any strokes behind.
0000 steel wool scuffing and paste wax should knock down the gloss. Rubbing with a gray abrasive pad like ScotchBrite will give you a matte finish.
First, wet sand with low grit sandpaper that can be used both wet and dry. Then apply rubbing compound to the coat. Next, wipe away excess clear glaze with a microfiber cloth. This process gets rid of any imperfections and makes the coat look new again.
To knock off some of the sheen to exactly where you want it, I would recommend go the other way around: start about 2000 grit, and then if you need it even less glossy, go another step down, like 1500, then 1000 if you need it even less glossy. You can find the sandpaper in places that sell auto finishing supplies.
It is normal to dull the sheen by rubbing with steel wool, e.g. #0000. You're in control how much it dulls at the expense of requiring some skill to do it evenly over the whole top. I'd probably scruff then clean the whole surface and then put a coat of matte or satin varnish on.
Two coats of finish are suggested for most interior projects. When sealing floors, you should apply three coats. However, do not apply more than two coats in one day. 220 grit sandpaper should be used between coats to remove any air bubbles, but avoid using steel wool.
Bubbles and streaks can ruin the smooth finish of your polyurethane floor. To avoid bubbles, make sure to stir the polyurethane gently and avoid shaking the can. When applying, use a high-quality brush or roller and apply thin, even coats.
2️⃣ Sanding: If the cloudiness is due to improper adhesion, lightly sand the affected area with fine-grit sandpaper. This will help smooth out the surface and promote better adhesion. 3️⃣ Recoating: Apply a fresh coat of water-based polyurethane, ensuring proper mixing and application techniques.
Work with a glaze (mixture of color and clear). A 1:1 or 2:1 ratio will yield a semi-gloss finish. A 4:1 ratio will get a more subdued satin finish. Or go over the clear completely with more color for a duller finish.
You should use an automotive polishing compound and a buffer for big areas. Small areas will have to be polished by hand unless you have some funky buffing tools. Make sure the poly has cured for a minimum of 4-5 days at 70f. Do not try to polish an uncured film.
First, clean the surface with turpentine and 000 steel wool. After surface has dried, reapply a coat of boiled linseed oil or penetrating oil. If desired, add a new coat of shellac or varnish followed by a coat of wax to the surface for a high gloss look and to protect the finished surface.