We rarely sand between coats, but we do use an 8 inch knife to knock off any boogers and raised trails. We use setting type mud on the first coat and premix on the 2nd and 3rd. The last coat needs to dry completely before wet floating or sanding.
Yes, you need to sand between coats of mud. However, perfection isn't needed on those first few coats.
If your wall has distinct crevices, cracks, or textured areas, or if your brand of drywall mud isn't offering enough coverage, you may have to do a couple of additional coats of compound. However, in general, you'll need one coat to fill in the seams and three more coats after taping.
Drywall mud can take as long as 24 hours to dry for thick applications. The 24-hour drying time recommendation can be applied to nearly all factors. Some manufacturers will bring down that number to 12 hours if a few shortcuts are applied to help speed up drying time without affecting the finished product.
Apply a Second Coat of Mud
The first task of how to mud drywall focused on taping and mudding the joints and corners. The next step is to apply a second coat of compound to these areas. Apply a thin layer of mud with a 10-inch drywall knife, using consistent strokes.
Sanding drywall is an essential task in any home renovation project. This task comes after hanging drywall sheets and covering gaps and nail gouges in the drywall with tape and joint compound. Sanding the drywall after the joint compound, or mud, dries creates a smooth and even surface for applying primer and paint.
We rarely sand between coats, but we do use an 8 inch knife to knock off any boogers and raised trails. We use setting type mud on the first coat and premix on the 2nd and 3rd. The last coat needs to dry completely before wet floating or sanding. If it is still moist at all, it will roll or streak.
Don't try to sand out gouges and big ridges. It's much easier just to trowel on another coat of joint compound. This is especially important at the edge of joints, where too much sanding will damage the paper face on the drywall. It's quick and easy to trowel a thin coat over the edge of the seam to fill a depression.
It would be best to keep it flush with your walls, so the thickness may vary depending on the spot. In general, you'll want to apply the mud in the thinnest layers possible.
Just be sure to mix in small batches if your new to sheet rocking or if your slow. This does dry fast in 90 minutes. I would say after about 40 minutes it starts to get hard to apply to the wall. After 90 you can start your next coat.
Drywall mud, also called joint compound, is a gypsum-based paste used to finish drywall joints and corners in new drywall installations. It's also handy for repairing cracks and holes in existing drywall and plaster surfaces. Drywall mud comes in a few basic types, and each has its advantages and disadvantages.
Wet sanding calls for plenty of water, so use a five-gallon bucket, and fill it three-quarters of the way with warm water, which helps soften the drywall mud. This way, you won't have to stop and refill your bucket too often.
Don't try to sand out gouges and big ridges. It's much easier just to trowel on another coat of joint compound. This is especially important at the edge of joints, where too much sanding will damage the paper face on the drywall. It's quick and easy to trowel a thin coat over the edge of the seam to fill a depression.
Fine-grit sandpaper (120 and above) – The finer the grit, the smoother the finish. Flashlight or work light – Most automatic pole sanders come with a light built in, but if you're wet sanding or dry sanding, having a handheld light or a headlamp that you can shine on the walls really helps show any imperfections.
What's the difference between the two? Wet sanding, which is sanding with the addition of water to act as a lubricant, is less abrasive than dry sanding, and results in a smoother finish. It's best to wet-sand the final finish of a project. Dry sanding removes more material, and smooths rough material quickly.
Let all the mud dry before applying the next coat. Apply a second coat of mud to the screw indentations, beveled joints, and inside and outside corners in the same order as the first coat—only this time, use only mud. No need to add more tape! Just apply a thin layer of mud and wipe off all excess.
It's also important to take into account for proper drying times between coats. You need to allow for a minimum of 24 hours of drying time between coats which could significantly postpone the completion of your project for a few days. If you have the time to sand between coats, it's probably a good idea.
Bed coat: The first coat of joint compound applied over the joints between sheets of drywall for tape embedment. Block coat: The second coat of joint compound that's applied on top of drywall tape. Bond failure: A lack of adhesion between joint compound and the drywall panel.
Typically, you should wait until your wall texture is completely dry before painting over it. If you paint over wet wall texture, you risk harming the texture, smudging the paint, or damaging the finished project.
Wipe your hand across the mudded area. It should be perfectly smooth. Wipe the dust off the wall with a sponge and you're ready to paint! You'll need to prime the repaired area first because the mud will absorb a lot of paint.