Wax doesn't take long to dry, and there's no need to leave it on the paint for more than the cure time of 20 to 30 minutes. During this time you can detail the interior of your car, or grab a quick snack. Once you can swipe your finger across the wax and it doesn't streak, you're golden.
Leave it for 20 to 30 mins and then buff it to a soft sheen. Apply, wait, and buff one piece at a time for example a chair, or single section of a table. Take your time. Work in easy to manage, bite sized areas.
Wait 24 hours between coats to allow the first layer to fully absorb into the wood. Repeat the application and buffing process for a smooth, durable finish.
To find out if wax is ready to buff out, try the swipe-test. Wrap your finger around a microfiber cloth and gently wipe (in one direction) a portion of the waxed surface. If the paint is clean and clear, it's time to buff. If it smears instead, the wax needs more time to cure.
Let it cool for at least 30 minutes. Use your metal scraper to scrape off the excess. You may need to repeat the process.
Due to this difference in hair growth cycles, waxing hair when it's too short will make some of the hairs grow back within a couple of days (and in an uneven, prickly wax job), and others not for a week or two. This can turn into a never-ending cycle of mixed growth patterns, ingrown hairs, and breakouts.
A lot of the candle making community believes the most hardening occurs within the first 14 days after pouring, but changes like that continue for weeks to months after pouring as well. More stable wax, like paraffin, notably doesn't change much 24-48 hours after pouring.
Personally, and I'm an old painter, I like to wait a minimum of 30 days and ideally 60-90 days before doing anything, including polishing. The reason being that as the paint hardens over time, the paint will shrink, the texture will change and the gloss will diminish.
For paste car wax, it is safe to buff off the residual product after it begins to haze. Do this with the same orbital buffer used in the application step.
Once a wax or a sealant flashes, it is time for it to come off. Leaving it on any longer will make it more difficult to remove and Mark makes a great point about it collecting dust. The only time I would use a glaze is on single stage paint that has faded or started to oxidize.
After applying each coat of wax, buff the surface with a clean microfiber towel to remove any excess and bring out the shine. This also helps ensure that each coat is smooth and even.
Finally, the freshly set finish should not be buffed or burnished for a minimum of 24-48 hours after laying the last coat of finish. Trying to manipulate the finish before it is fully cured can completely distort or even remove the newly applied coats.
quickly and briskly swipe it against the dried (drying?) wax to reveal the paint below. If the resulting swipe is smeared and streaky, that means the wax is not yet dry. If the resulting swipe is clear and glossy, however, then you know the wax is dry and you can begin the simple task of wiping it off.
Allow the polish to dry for about 10 minutes. Take the horsehair buffing brush and buff the entire shoe with quick side to side movements. A nice shine will start to come through. Wipe off any excess wax using a rag, making sure every part of the shoe gets equal love.
Wax doesn't take long to dry, and there's no need to leave it on the paint for more than the cure time of 20 to 30 minutes. During this time you can detail the interior of your car, or grab a quick snack. Once you can swipe your finger across the wax and it doesn't streak, you're golden.
After applying wax, buff in overlapping circular patterns to remove the residue and expose the shine. The longer you buff, the better the shine. If you are finished buffing and still see some residue patches, park the car in the sun for 10–15 minutes. By heating the wax, buffing becomes more efficient.
Layering wax is somewhat of a myth in the detailing world. Your best option is to apply 2 coats of your wax to ensure even and complete coverage, and then maintain it well and wax it often.
Polishing is needed to remove scratches, and waxing is applied afterward to protect the polished surface.
In general, more pressure is good for compounding stages and light pressure works well with finishing stages, but this greatly varies on what polish and pad is being used.
When you wet sand to 800-grit, then you should start buffing with a coarse polishing compound. If wet sanded to 1200-1500 grit start, with medium compound. (In both cases proceed through all buffing stages.) Use 1500 and 2000-grits for ultra-delicate sanding.
Wait for the wax to harden (this usually takes about five minutes). Pull the wax off in the opposite direction of hair growth. Repeat on all desired areas. Apply an ingrown serum once hair is removed.
Soy wax candles generally take the least amount of time – around 5 hours to cool and solidify. Vegetable wax candles slightly longer – around 7 hours, while Paraffin wax candles take the longest time. You can always decorate your candle before allowing it to set for 24 hours.