To test a refrigerator compressor, unplug the fridge and access the compressor behind the lower rear panel. Remove the start relay and overload protector from the three terminals. Use a multimeter to check the resistance across the pins (Winding Test) and verify the pins do not have a short circuit (Ground Test).
To tell if a refrigerator compressor is bad, first listen for the "click-then-nothing" sound, check if the fridge struggles to cool, and feel the compressor to see if it’s excessively hot. You can definitively diagnose it by testing the electrical pins with a multimeter or checking the start relay.
To reset a refrigerator compressor, perform a hard power reset: unplug the fridge (or flip its specific circuit breaker) for 5 to 10 minutes. This allows the compressor’s internal thermal overload switch to cool, clears error codes from the control board, and resets any compressor timing locks.
When a refrigerator compressor fails, it stops circulating the refrigerant required to absorb and remove heat. Consequently, the appliance loses its ability to cool. The internal temperature will rise, causing food to spoil rapidly, and you will likely hear strange clicking or humming noises from the back of the unit.
Reset Power
The most common cause of refrigerator compressor failure is overheating. Overheating places extreme thermal stress on the motor and internal moving parts, ultimately leading to mechanical seizure or motor burnout.
If your fridge compressor isn't working, it’s usually because of a faulty start relay, a bad start capacitor, or an overheated overload protector. Often, an inexpensive replacement of one of these parts can save you from buying a new refrigerator.
Whether fixing a refrigerator compressor is worth it depends mostly on the age and cost of the fridge. Compressor replacement typically costs $500 to $1,200+ for parts and labor. If your appliance is over 8–10 years old or the repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new fridge, you should generally replace the appliance instead.
The very first thing to check when a refrigerator stops cooling is its power supply and thermostat. Ensure the power cord is securely plugged in, the outlet is active by testing it with another device, and the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. Then, verify that the internal temperature dials are set correctly.
Thermoelectric devices are capable of converting electrical energy into thermal heat pumping at a very high efficiency. The cooling system is made up of one thermoelectric device, composed of a Peltier module (40 watt) with its hot side in contact with a heat sink and aluminum plate in contact with the cold side.
The reset button is almost always located on the electric motor itself—usually on the side or back near the terminal box. It typically sticks out as a small rubber-covered or exposed black/red button, sometimes labeled "Circuit Breaker".
Wait it out: Leave the refrigerator unplugged for 5–10 minutes to allow the compressor to fully reset. Listen for the click: When power is restored, you should hear the compressor kick back on within a few minutes.
The compressor, coils and control board are the most expensive repairs. Your fridge's brand, model and size, plus your location, will impact repair costs. If your refrigerator is more than 6 years old and it will cost you more than half its original price to repair it, consider replacing it instead.
Your Refrigerator Is Always Running
While it's normal for your refrigerator to cycle on and off throughout the day, a refrigerator running non-stop might indicate an issue with the compressor.
A failing fridge compressor typically emits a loud, persistent buzz, a rapid rhythmic clicking, or a metallic "death rattle". While a normal compressor produces a gentle, low hum, failing units struggle to start and may overheat, causing harsh mechanical, clunking, or vibrating sounds.
A bad air conditioning compressor struggles to pressurize and circulate refrigerant. The most common symptoms include warm or lukewarm air from the vents, loud grinding or squealing noises when the AC is on, the compressor clutch failing to engage, and repeated tripping of your home's circuit breaker or car's AC fuse.
If your fridge is making loud clicking noises, constantly running without cooling, or failing to turn on entirely, the compressor may be bad. You can confirm a failing compressor by checking the electrical pins with a multimeter or observing the motor's physical behavior.
The most common refrigerator problems involve inadequate cooling, excessive noise, and leaks. These issues often stem from clogged coils, worn door seals, or failing internal fans, which can usually be diagnosed and corrected with basic maintenance.
To quickly get your fridge cooling again, start by checking the simplest fixes:
A refrigerator compressor typically lasts 10 to 15 years. With diligent maintenance and ideal operating conditions, some can even reach 20 years. However, because the lifespan of the compressor often matches the lifespan of the fridge itself, many units are replaced entirely when the compressor fails.
Bottom-freezer refrigerators should be repaired within seven years and considered for replacement after that. Top-freezer refrigerators should be repaired within three years, considered for repair within three to six years, and replaced if older than seven years.
Installing a new refrigerator compressor costs about $450 on average, ranging between $300 and $400, in most cases. The cost for the compressor itself can run from $100 to $500, not including installation. When your refrigerator is running perfectly, you probably don't give its inner workings much thought.
A common sign of compressor trouble is a repeated clicking noise as it tries and fails to start. You may also hear loud humming, buzzing, or knocking sounds. When the compressor isn't working properly, refrigerant may not circulate correctly, leading to frost or ice inside the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
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To reset a refrigerator compressor, perform a hard power reset: unplug the fridge (or flip its specific circuit breaker) for 5 to 10 minutes. This allows the compressor’s internal thermal overload switch to cool, clears error codes from the control board, and resets any compressor timing locks.