Steel rod pins & timberlok screws
If you're stacking your sleepers on top of or next to each other, use steel rod pins or timberlok screws (sometimes called sleeper screws) to secure them into place. You can also use these to fix corners, by fixing the rod through the edge of one beam and into the other's end.
Exterior wood oils are a great option as they retain the natural appearance of the sleeper, will help to seal in any wood preserver used on them, and offer a good level of protection against weathering and water damage. Wood oils are also easy to maintain by simply applying a fresh coat of oil as and when required.
Overlap the sleepers at the ends and then join them using a steel rod pin or landscaping screw. The alternative is to use metal corner plates and braces. These are quicker, easier, and form a strong bond that'll hold your structure in position without the need to overlap the ends.
Left untreated, both softwoods and hardwoods will silver over time, due to the natural tannins being bleached by water and the sun. Sleepers should not be submerged in water and for the longest life, protected from the sun by shade or with UV filtering oils or finishes.
Clear Wood Oil or Decking Oil: These products are ideal for those who want their sleepers to age naturally to a grey or silver colour while still being protected from the elements. A clear oil will nourish the wood, making it supple and water-resistant, which helps protect it from water and frost damage.
If you plan on placing your railway sleeper onto a solid surface such as a patio or concrete, they can be put directly on top, but if you're going to place them on soil, they need to be slightly sunken into the ground.
Drill and screws: Secure the sleepers together firmly. Steel beams or RSJs (if required): For additional support in higher walls. Porous pipes or drainage materials: Consider drainage behind the wall to reduce water pressure. Backfill material: Use excess soil or gravel behind the wall for stability.
Softwood sleepers may last less than 5 years if they are not treated. Softwood sleepers come from pine and it is known that they are less resistant to decay. They need to be treated and maintained and then you can expect them to last for up to 20 years. Hardwood sleepers have been known to last up to 100 years.
Fill around the sleeper with soil or sand to secure it in place before moving onto laying the next one. To fix railway sleepers to the ground, use spikes or screws designed for outdoor use to ensure they remain stable over time.
You can either opt for concrete, sand or gravel foundations or lay the sleepers on the soil with no official foundation.
Softwood that is left untreated will still last around two to five years, which is why all of our softwood sleepers have been treated for longevity. We also supply hardwood sleepers, with oak sleepers ranging from 15 to 20 years and European oak sleepers lasting for 20 years.
In this case, you may need vertical retaining posts (or even railway sleepers), along the length of the wall, to support the wall from leaning forward. In this case, simply concrete the vertical posts into the ground, and fasten the stacked railway sleepers to the posts with Timberlok sleeper screws.
Rail spikes
A rail spike (also known as a cut spike or crampon) is a large nail with an offset head that is used to secure rails and base plates to railroad ties (sleepers) in the track.
Some people fasten railway sleepers together with bolts or Timberlok Screws. Others use steel angle brackets or steel flat connector plates. Some people use wooden stakes to support their railway sleeper creations, whereas others slot their railway sleepers into steel 'I' or 'H' beams.
Using Landscaping Screws
Landscaping screws are essential for securing railway sleepers in your garden projects. They provide a strong, durable bond that helps keep structures like raised beds and retaining walls stable over time. Choose screws at least 150mm long for effective depth and hold.
You can use DPM on the rear of the timber, and pea gravel backfill directly behind sleepers. The pea gravel will allow a free draining area behind the wall. You could also add a length of land drain wrapped in geotextile membrane, to keep fine particles of soil out of pipe.
In Scotland, a sleeper wall is defined as a load-bearing element and therefore should be provided with a suitable foundation.
Although raised beds are usually constructed on free-draining soil, we recommend lining the bottom of your bed with a generous drainage layer of hardcore, stones or coarse gravel.
One of the most popular options is to use steel rod pins or long landscaping screws. Alternatively, you can use metal plates and corner braces to build a strong, square finish for your garden sleepers.
Warping occurs when the moisture content in wood changes unevenly. In damp or rainy conditions, moisture is absorbed into the wood causing swelling.
Circular saws are the middle ground between hand saws and chainsaws. They allow you to cut sleepers easily while giving you fine control over the angle and manner of the cut. This makes the circular saw the most popular tool for the job.
Clear the area of all unwanted vegetation and material and then dig a shallow, level trench to allow for bedding material. Usually you would allow 3-4 courses in height and start by bedding the first sleeper onto a semi-dry concrete mix laid in your trench.
A stiff brush gets into the wood's grooves, clearing out dust and small particles. Pressure washer - Ideal for blasting away years of grime, algae, and fungus. A jet wash can rejuvenate old timber sleepers quickly. Sandpaper or an electric sander - Perfect for smoothing rough spots and edges.