To prepare a plywood subfloor for floating vinyl plank flooring, ensure the plywood is clean, dry, and level. Fill any gaps or low spots with leveling compound, and sand down any high spots. It's also advisable to lay down a moisture barrier if necessary, depending on the subfloor conditions.
Generally speaking, LVP can be installed directly over subfloors such as concrete or ceramic tile assuming they're clean and level. Additional underlayment may be required if installing over existing hardwood or vinyl sheet floors to protect against moisture damage and sound transmission.
Underlayment sits between the subfloor and the finished floor covering. They can be made from a variety of materials like foam, cork, felt, and rubber.
Very often, particularly in a below-grade installation on a concrete basement floor, a vapor barrier is recommended in addition to the underlayment. That vapor barrier would go between the subfloor and the underlayment.
When moisture penetrates your flooring, it can cause mold, mildew, and the potential for water damage. A moisture barrier helps control the water vapor's movement to help protect your floors. Therefore, if you're installing floors in an area that sees moisture, even a little, a vapor barrier is needed.
Make sure your subfloor is dry, smooth, structurally sound, and free from debris (that means scraping off the old glue if you've ripped out old vinyl or laminate). Move your roll of vinyl into the room where it's being fitted at least 24-48 hours beforehand to allow it to acclimatise to room temperature.
If the vinyl flooring product you choose doesn't have an attached underlayment, you can almost always install directly over the subfloor without one. But to maximize softness, warmth, moisture proofing, and noise reduction, an underlayment is key.
Flat: All wood and concrete subfloors must be flat within 1/8” over a 6' span, or 3/16” over a 10' span. All areas of the subfloor must be checked prior to installation. High spots can be sanded or grinded down and low spots filled with appropriate patching compounds.
A successful tile installation project requires a level surface. Check for dips in the floor by sliding a 4-foot to 6-foot straight edge in different directions all around the room. Mark any uneven spots you find so that you can make them level. Fill seams in the subfloor with caulk.
Cover the floor area with either a 4mm or 6mm plywood - the thickness selected should be determined by the quality of the surface being covered. Ply should be of suitable quality, eg SP101. Wood should be fixed using screws, twisted shank or ring shank nails, serrated or divergent staples.
Vinyl is one of the most affordable types of flooring, at a cost of just $1 to $2 per square foot for vinyl sheet flooring and $2 to $7 per square foot for vinyl planks. Professional installation for vinyl floors costs another $3 to $10 per square foot.
Subfloor Must Be Clean
Before starting the installation, thoroughly sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove all loose particles. Additionally, check for any grease, residue, or spills that could affect the adhesion of the new flooring.
Most vinyl plank flooring manufacturers specify the maximum allowable underlayment thickness, typically ranging from 1mm to 3mm. It is crucial to follow these guidelines to avoid voiding the warranty or causing damage to the flooring.
Choosing between felt or foam-backed vinyl flooring ultimately comes down to personal preferences, alongside the specific needs of the space where it will be installed. Felt-backed vinyl offers an enhanced underfoot experience that's warm, comfortable, and forgiving of minor subfloor irregularities.
Not all vinyl has to be glued to the floor. Heavy duty 'stay flat' vinyl doesn't shrink or lift, so you can lay it without using adhesive. If you're laying cushioned vinyl, you should glue it around the edges and at joins. Thinner, non-cushioned types need to be stuck down all over.
Prep the Subfloor
Before you install your vinyl sheet, make sure the subfloor is levelled perfectly and is free of gaps, gouges, or seams. You can use a combination of level compound and pre-mixed floor patch to fill the low spots. If the dips are deep, you will need to repair the subfloor.
Foam: Being one of the least expensive underlayments you can buy, foam fits as the perfect choice to be put under your vinyl floor, especially if your subfloor is made of plywood. However, make sure that you have no moisture issues as foam and water aren't a good combination when it comes to flooring.
Underlayment is not required if the vinyl flooring will be laid over a cushion-backed vinyl floor or a tile floor below grade. In all other applications, however, you should use one, such as covering existing hardwood floors, vinyl flooring without cushion, and concrete floors.
When you're laying LVP over existing tile, the grout lines are one of the first things you'll need to address. Grout lines can create a slightly uneven surface, and if not smoothed out, they might become visible through the LVP, creating an unsightly “telegraphing” effect.
The Consequences of Omitting an Expansion Gap
This often manifests as bulging or lifting, particularly at the centre of the room. This phenomenon, known as a “pinch point,” occurs when expanding flooring comes into contact with a wall or door frame, creating upward pressure on the boards.