Start by saturating the stained concrete surface with a product like ProClean Neutralizer™. This helps neutralize the acid stain and prepares the surface for thorough cleaning. 2. Gently scrub the neutralizer into the concrete using a soft nylon bristle brush, taking care to wear your spiked shoes during this process.
Neutralize with water and either baking soda, t.s.p., or ammonia and then final rinse twice with clean water only. We recommend using 12 to 16 ounces of ammonia per mop bucket. Or 6 to 8 ounces of ammonia to 1 gal sprayer of water.
Or use 4 ounces of household ammonia to 1 gallon of water. Sprinkle your neutralizing solution over the part of the floor that was acid etched and let it sit for a minimum of 10 minutes. When time is up, rinse the neutralized solution with your hose into a drain or out the garage (if local water codes allow it).
If you're planning on sealing your concrete, this is the most important step. If you do not neutralize and clean the floor with Neutra Clean™, your Kemiko sealer cannot bond correctly. More about Kemiko Neutra Clean™ Neutralizer and Degreaser. More about Kemiko Stone Tone™ Concrete Acid Stain.
A white haze, white streaks or white, powdery dust on the surface after drying is caused by waiting too long before rinsing or by inadequate rinsing. The white powder is a combination of cement particles released from the surface and a precipitate byproduct of the etching reaction, insoluble calcium phosphate.
First, for very mild cases of efflorescence, try a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water. Using a scrub brush, spot treat and scrub affected areas with the vinegar mix. The acidity in the vinegar helps remove the efflorescence and calcium deposits by breaking down mineral crystals.
Acid stains are a reactive coloring process that penetrates into the porous concrete surface. This is probably the most permanent of all coloring options but is usually limited to eight colors.
A ½ teaspoon of baking soda will neutralize 1 cup of an acidic ingredient. Just a little baking math – Recipes often employ a combination of baking powder and baking soda, using just enough baking soda to neutralize the acid in the recipe, but also enough total leavener to lift the flour in the recipe.
Step 1: If the acid stains are fresh or recent, take a generous amount of baking soda to sprinkle over the stain. Whereas if the acid stain is old, you can make a thick consistency paste of baking soda with water and apply it on the stain to cover the whole area. Step 2: Wipe it off after a few minutes with a cloth.
Any concrete that is not properly neutralized will begin decomposing immediately. It may take time for the damage to reach the surface where you can see it, but it is happening and is usually irrepairable.
After the concrete is properly etched, neutralize with either sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or soda ash. Sodium bicarbonate neutralization solution (baking soda): Dissolve 3 - 4 parts baking soda with 100 parts water. Soda ash neutralization solution: Dissolve 2 - 3 parts soda ash with 100 parts water.
In addition to the water test, feel the surface of the concrete — a properly etched concrete surface should look and feel like 120-grit medium sandpaper. If it is properly etched, your surface is now ready for you to apply your sealant or coating.
How to remove scratches and acid-etched graffiti on glass. Because there has been an irreversible chemical reaction to the glass, there isn't a cleaner that will remove these tags. However, most can be removed 'mechanically' through buffing and polishing. Specialized equipment is available for this job.
Allow the stain to dry for a full 8 hours or overnight before neutralizing the stain. This will ensure the stain penetrates into the surface completely.
Worse than the inadequacies of the acid wash process are the dangers of it. Over time, it can destroy concrete as the acid weakens its structure.
This will help the sealer to penetrate and result in a superior bond between the sealer and the surface. Sealing after acid washing provides long lasting durability and enhances or deepens the colour of your blocks, it is important to seal the acid washed area as it offers excellent protection against staining.
Keep a supply of baking soda or garden lime nearby in case you need to quickly neutralize muriatic acid. While sprinkling these substances full-strength will work, the best plan is to mix ½ cup of baking soda and a quart of water in a sealed spray bottle and keep it nearby.
To clean and etch concrete, mix one part muriatic acid to 10 parts water. Brush or spray the acid solution on the concrete, wait eight to 10 minutes, then neutralize the acid by spraying the surface with a mixture of one cup of ammonia in one gallon of water.
Like any strong acid, muriatic acid can irritate your skin (prolonged exposure can even cause burns). Gloves will help you avoid direct contact. If you do get muriatic acid on your skin, wash the area with clean water right away (it's a good idea to keep a garden hose or a bucket of clean water nearby).
SpringWell Calcite pH Neutralizer is the best acid neutralizer for well water thanks to its ability to neutralize water in the pH range of 6-6.5, which is the most common pH range for wells in the United States. This systems comes with sturdy build, and lifetime warranty on both the tank and valves.
Pour baking soda directly onto any acid spill. This will neutralize light acids like vinegar or even strong, dangerous acids like muriatic and sulphuric acids. Douse the entire affected area with the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, NaHCO3) to neutralize the acid.
Lime is the neutralizing material of choice in almost all applications and is readily available at most hardware stores. Lime can be used to neutralize larger spills that accumulate in containment vessels and larger spills. To make slurry, add water to lime to slow down the reaction before adding the lime to the acid.
Acid stains penetrate the porous concrete through a chemical reaction. The acid in the stain reacts with the concrete lime and inorganic metal salts. This chemical reaction creates a permanent color change.
There are two ways you can take a dark stain and make the final shade lighter. First option would be to dilute the acid stain itself. Second option would be to wash the stain off earlier in the process. In addition a second test patch should be done before completing the project.
Strip any curing agents or waxes, remove any paints or glues, ensure there is no grease or oils. Because many oils and petroleum based contaminants can be hard to see until after the stain is applied, we recommend that you first scrub the area with a concrete degreaser.