Your pH levels affect your chlorine levels and the ability for the chlorine to do its work properly. If your water's pH is too high, it hinders the chlorine's ability to efficiently clean the pool. A water pH level that is too low causes the chlorine to dissipate more quickly.
Chlorine lock can occur when there is too much cyanuric acid (also referred to as conditioner or stabilizer) in the water. This occurs when too much stabilizer is added to the water or when the swimming pool isn't being partially drained and refilled periodically. Chlorine lock can also occur if the pH is unbalanced.
Most floating chlorinators can hold anywhere from two to eight weeks worth of chlorine, depending on conditions such as the season and your pool's size. An automatic feeder works in a similar way, allowing it to mix with the pool water slowly and deliberately.
The Short, Short Version. Test Chlorine levels at least twice per week. Also make sure to test after heavy use or rainfall, as Chlorine levels have likely been depleted. Pool chlorine is responsible for sanitizing your pool and hot tub water to make it safe to swim.
Liquid Chlorine has the shortest shelf life of all your pool chemicals, losing up to 50% or half of its potency six months from when it was first opened and up to 90% after a year.
The chlorine in your pool acts the same way. Keep in mind, organic materials like algae, leaves, sunscreen, lotions, pee, poop, and etc., consume chlorine. As chlorine does its job, it is depleted in the process.
You'll want to follow the rule of 3 pounds of shock for every 10,000 gallons of water.
The Bottom Line about Pools and Chlorine
As mentioned above, you could probably swim in a pool without chlorine without any major health issues. However, long-term use of a pool lacking chlorinated H2O could make you sick or, at the very least, contribute to rashes and other types of skin irritation.
In short, the UV rays produced by the sun have a major effect on chlorine. When exposed to UV rays, chlorine ions begin to separate, which eventually destroys them. And as your chlorine burns away, your sanitizer level drops. This is the very reason why CYA (cyanuric acid), or chlorine stabilizer, exists.
The addition of a cyanuric acid stabilizer to pool waters treated with chlorine is necessary to protect the active life of chlorine and its derivatives in the waters from the damaging effects of the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays. When exposed to UV rays, chlorine evaporates rapidly.
At temperatures above 78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit, chlorine dissipates faster, algae grows better, and the formation of scale (calcium carbonate deposits) is more likely to occur. There are no State laws regulating swimming pool temperature, but spa temperature may not exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit.
Excess chlorine can alter the pH level of the water in the pool, making it more acidic. The acid levels can cause any of the following symptoms: Irritant dermatitis which is a red skin rash characterized by raised itchy red bumps. Eye irritation and over-dilated blood vessels in the eyes.
Strong Smell of Chlorine
A healthy, safe pool will have little to no odor. That smell comes when your pool is out of balance. The smell of chlorine arises when the chemicals are dealing with a lot organic material like sweat, urine, and bacteria in your pool.
The best way by far to break a chlorine demand is to perform a chlorine demand test. This test is contained in a separate lab available to BioGuard Dealers, and it can give the exact amount of Burn Out® 35 or Burn Out® needed to break the demand.
You cannot overshock a swimming pool or add too much. Adding too much shock or overshocking your pool will kill off algae. The negative of adding too much shock is it will upset the chemical balance of your pool.
Algae create a chlorine demand in the water for itself, consuming chlorine that should be working on other contaminants. As it expels carbon dioxide, the pH level of pool water can rise. Algae are kind of like weeds in your garden.
When chlorine water is exposed to sunlight, it loses its characteristic light yellow colour and becomes colourless. The presence of sunlight forms an intermediate product of hypochlorous acid, which further reacts to form hydrochloric acid in more concentrated form and nascent oxygen.
Store pool chemicals outside the home or attached garage; a locked stand-alone shed is recommended. Lock your storage area to keep children, pets and unauthorized users out. Keep your storage area free of rags, trash, debris, or other materials that could clutter the hazardous material area.
Yes, sunlight and heat do affect pool chlorine. Ultraviolet rays can reduce chlorine by up to 90 percent in two hours. As for temperature, warmer water tends to breed more bacteria, and so the pool's chlorine gets used up faster and must be replenished more frequently.
Depending on how much you have added and the size of your pool, it is generally safe to wait about 4 hours after adding liquid chlorine or until levels reach 5 ppm or lower.
Household bleach, Clorox and liquid chlorine can all be used to sanitize a pool. They are all types of chlorine. Household bleaches such as Clorox usually contain about 5-6% available chlorine, about half that of pool liquid chlorine. Household bleaches often have unwanted fragrances and colors.
When the levels are properly balanced, chlorine will keep the algae at bay, but the water will slowly begin to turn green as the algae take over if there's not enough. But be careful—adding too much chlorine in pool water can cause those metals to oxidize and turn the pool a different shade of green.
The best chlorine neutralizer available for swimming pools is still sodium thiosulfate.