On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
So what's the right amount? The best way to know when you're done sanding is to scribble a light pencil line across your wood before you start. Once the line is gone, move up to the next grit. Repeat up to the highest grit sandpaper, then wet your wood with mineral spirits to confirm there are no remaining marks.
As a whole, it is not necessary to sand the wood before staining it if the wood was not stained, painted, or sealed before. If the wood was painted or sealed before then it has to be sanded down to the raw wood before staining it. Otherwise, the sain can´t be absorbed by the wood properly.
Even fresh lumber can have a “mill glaze” on it which will prevent proper staining. No matter what the condition of the wood it will likely need sanding first. Start with a 60-grit sandpaper to strip everything bare and then work up to an 80-grit paper and eventually finish with a 120-grit paper.
Begin with medium-grit sandpaper (#120). Work your way to a final sanding with fine-grit sandpaper (#220). Always sand in the direction of the grain to avoid leaving unsightly scratches. Stain can be applied with a bristle brush, a foam brush, or a cloth.
After sanding, power-wash the deck and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours before staining. Sanding exposes porous wood that's ready to soak up the stain, but this isn't possible if the wood is full of water.
Make sure you sand the wood well before applying stain. Any scratches will be enhanced by stain. Sanding will also help open up the pores of the wood so that they can absorb stain better. Start with 80 grit to remove big scratches and imperfections, then move up to 120 and finally 220 grit.
Using a lint free rag is the best way to apply wood stain because it is great for controlling the amount of stain that is applied and for removing any excess stain. Also, the rag leaves a beautiful, even, and brush stroke free finish. It also can easily be thrown out once finished.
Give rough-cut lumber a new and finished look by applying a stain before you begin your project. Staining rough-cut lumber is different from staining traditional lumber, so be sure to use the right method. Find a well-ventilated area to do the staining.
If wood gets over-sanded in one spot, it starts to become uneven, with a distorted sort of appearance. This can happen to even the most experienced woodworker. Usually this starts simply by attempting to sand out a discoloration, defect, scratch or gouge.
After sanding a piece of wood, you'll need to clean it before adding a stain or paint. You can use a variety of tools and techniques to remove sanding dust from your wooden surface.
The Golden Rule of Sanding
The golden rule for choosing your sequence is to never skip more than 1 grit. For example, if you start with P80, and need to finish at P240, rather than using every grit from P80 – P220, you can do P80 – P120 – P180 – P240. This sequence cuts out P100, P150 and P220.
If you sand past 180 grit, the wood dust created by the sandpaper starts getting incredibly small. This wood dust can work its way into the wood pores, and clog them up. This prevents the wood from absorbing stain and finish properly.
These back marks are called metallic discoloration, or iron stains, caused by elemental iron reacting with phenolic chemicals in the wood, forming black iron tannates. Iron stains require the presence of iron, water, and wood and will not occur if one of these elements is absent.
There are a couple of reasons wood won't absorb stain. These include staining sealed wood, sanding too finely, and working with tight-grained woods that don't take stain. There are specific solutions to each problem, but generally applying a sealer and a stain that sits on top of the wood is a simple solution.
Treat stain immediately. Soak 30 minutes or more in cold water. Rub detergent into stain. If stain persists, place a small amount of household ammonia on the stain and rub again with detergent.
Typically, cold water works great on blood, as well as food, beverages and water-based paint, while hot water works best on protein-based stains. Unfortunately, there's no golden rule to stain removal. For example, most food stains should be soaked in cold water, unless it's egg, mustard or a tomato-based product.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
If the color is then not even, or it's too light, you'll need to apply more stain. Switch to a slower drying stain, work on smaller sections at a time, or apply and wipe off the stain faster by using a cloth or spray gun to apply the stain and a large dry cotton cloth to remove the excess stain.
Sand. After the first “sealer” coat has dried, sand it smooth using very fine sandpaper. Not doing this is probably the single most common cause of finishes not feeling smooth after all coats have been applied. The most important thing you can do to achieve smooth results is to sand the first coat smooth.
The best way to get a smooth finish is to apply the first coat of sealer, let it dry, and then lightly sand the surface with 220-grit sandpaper before applying a second coat. 6. Clean up. Water-based stains should wash out of rags and drop cloths with warm water and soap.
Note: Sanding between coats is not necessary, but it will provide a better finish. After a coat has dried, use 220 or 240 grit sandpaper or extra fine steel wool to lightly sand surface. This will ensure good adhesion of the succeeding coat.
Most solid hardwood planks are thick enough to be refinished up to ten times. Refinishing is essential to caring for your solid hardwood and helps it last longer. However, while solid wood can take multiple refinishing over the decades, we can only refinish engineered hardwood once or twice.