A sanding sealer must be applied after the stain but before the finish coat because otherwise it would prevent the stain from penetrating.
Do not apply stain to the top of the sanding sealer. To work properly, wood stain needs to soak into the pores of the wood. Sanding sealer negates this process. The stain will sit on the surface and not be absorbed.
After the stain has dried, it's time for the first finishing coat. Remember, you put the stain on unfinished wood, so you need to seal the stain to protect it.
Sanding sealers fill and raise the wood grain, creating a rough, gritty feel. After the wood is sanded with a fine grit sandpaper, it is ready for the 3rd and final step--a clear, non-yellowing top coat, which you can find in Aqua Coat's full top coat line.
Use on Bare wood: Use one to two coats of amber-tined sanding sealer first to bring out the wet color of the wood. Sand, then apply the wood grain filler.
We recommend no more than 1-2 coats, then finish with 1-2 coats of topcoat.
Wood stain dries faster in warmer, mild conditions with lower humidity levels. How long do you need to wait before sealing wood after staining? For best results, wait at least 24 hours before sealing the wood. If you are concerned the stain isn't quite dry enough, wait another day before applying poly.
You should sand after the first coat of water-based stain to flatten any wood grain the water raised, but it's unnecessary after that.
The thin viscosity makes it easy to spread and allows it to penetrate into porous woods. To start apply 1 thin coat and allow it to dry. Lightly scuff sand to remove any raised grain fibers, then apply an additional 1 to 2 coats to seal wood and provide an excellent surface that will be ready to topcoat.
The main difference between an undercoat, sealer, and primer is that primers are applied to a new surface, while sealers are used as either the substitute to a primer or they are applied before the primer. An undercoat is typically used on a surface that has already been painted.
The way to get the smoothest and best-feeling finish is to “rub out” the last coat using sandpaper and abrasive compounds. Methods of doing this are written about often. It's a mechanical procedure that doesn't differ all that much from sanding the wood.
Sanding. Make sure you sand the wood well before applying stain. Any scratches will be enhanced by stain. Sanding will also help open up the pores of the wood so that they can absorb stain better.
Sand and clean the surface of the wood. Then, apply wood filler using a putty knife. Once filler is dry, sand the area until the surface is level and smooth. Then apply stain or other finish as desired.
Michael Dresdner: "Sanding sealer is never mandatory. It is an option that saves time and material in some situations, and is unnecessary in others. Some woods, like cedar, spruce, and poplar, are so porous that they tend to suck up the first few coats of sprayed lacquer as if nothing were applied.
Some experts recommend sealing the pavers before adding sand, while others recommend doing it after. The important thing to remember is that the sealer will protect the paver surface from staining and fading, so it is important to choose a quality sealer regardless of when you apply it.
Answer: Most people like to stain and seal at the same time, although you can come back a week later and seal if you like. If you're going to wait between staining and sealing, just do a light power wash to clean the concrete and let it dry prior to sealing.
Expert Tips For an Extra Smooth Finish:
A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner. Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained.
Lightly sand the surface with 220-280 grit sandpaper. A powder should develop when sanded. Do not over-sand to avoid removal of the sanding sealer or previous stain.
It's generally better to use a dedicated paste wood filler (pore filler) to fill pores than the finish itself, or sanding sealer, because finishes continue shrinking. This will cause the pores to noticeably open up a little after a few weeks or months.
If the color is then not even, or it's too light, you'll need to apply more stain. Switch to a slower drying stain, work on smaller sections at a time, or apply and wipe off the stain faster by using a cloth or spray gun to apply the stain and a large dry cotton cloth to remove the excess stain.
Whenever water or any stain or finish that contains water comes in contact with wood, it causes the wood fibers to swell, which is called “grain raising” or “raised grain.” After the water has dried the wood feels rough to the touch, and thinly applied finishes also feel rough.