Your oven can have many fuses that are connected to certain components, this can help you narrow down what area of your oven is suffering a fault. It could be just one fuse that's blown or an assortment of them. Of course, if it's the fuse on the plug then replacing it will be simple and straightforward.
Inside the oven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly. If the unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such as the oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and a self-cleaning feature may be separately fused.
Many electric ranges include a fuse in the 120-volt circuit that operates such items as oven and stovetop lights, the electric clock, convenience outlets, etc.
No oven has a Reset Button. If you want to reset the unit, you can turn the circuit breaker off for 5 minutes, and turn it back on. This can be enough to reset minor glitches most of the time. Otherwise, if you still encounter power outages or you lose power randomly, this may be a sign of a bad control board.
The possible reasons your oven is not working may include a broken baking or broiling element, a malfunctioning spark element (spark electrode), a broken igniter, a blown fuse, an issue with the control board, or outlets not providing enough power to the oven.
Reset the Electronic Control
Turn the circuit breaker to the OFF position or remove the fuse. Wait one minute, then turn the circuit breaker back to the ON position or install the fuse to reset power to the appliance. This should reset the electronic controls on the Range or Wall Oven.
Of course, if it's the fuse on the plug then replacing it will be simple and straightforward. Remember always discontent the oven before attempting to change the fuse and make sure you're replacing it with a matching fuse.
If you're fumbling with the controls on your oven and it's not responding, you likely have an electrical problem. Additionally, if you notice power fluctuations, it's also an indication that something is wrong. Corrosion, shorted-out wiring, or even high currents can be to blame.
Because most stoves are 240 volts, homeowners must use a double-pole dedicated circuit breaker inside their electrical panels to ensure the power supply meets the stove's requirements. Depending on how much power the stove draws, it will typically require a 30-to-60-amp circuit breaker.
Place a small amount of granulated sugar in an oven-proof dish or on a cookie sheet lined with aluminum foil. Place in oven for 15 minutes. If your oven is calibrated correctly, the sugar will melt. If your oven is running cold, the sugar will not melt.
The most common issue is that no power is getting to the burner or coil. This could be a tripped breaker, a blown a fuse, or a defective switch. If there is power going to the burner, but it still doesn't work, then there might be an issue with the burner or coil itself, and it will need to be replaced.
The blown fuse will be apparent because the wire element within will have melted or burned from the higher electrical current. You can also leverage diagnostic tools like a test light or a multimeter to identify the dead fuse without having to pull it out. Both devices are affordable and easy to use.
Most range stores use plug fuses which have a threaded base that looks like a light bulb and a glass top. If the fuse is blown, the metal link under the glass surface is going to be blackened and broken. If you can't see this, then a multimeter can be used to test if the fuse is still working.
The most likely cause of your electric oven not turning on is an issue with a heating element. The quickest way to tell if the heating element is at fault is to look at it. When working properly it should be glowing. If not, and it has signs of wear and tear, or the oven looks dirty, then you've likely found the cause.
On average, you can expect your electric oven to last 13 years, these days, and your gas oven to last 15. But, like anything else, the more you use it, the quicker it will wear out. Daily use for a family of five will wear an oven out faster than just heating up a frozen pizza a couple of times a month.
Like any other piece of equipment, ovens are prone to wear and tear. Whether your oven light isn't working or your oven isn't heating up properly, most common issues can be repaired quickly and easily. In fact, ovens are built to last and it's usually more cost-effective to explore repair rather than replacement.
Replacing a fuse is a relatively easy, do-it-yourself home task that you can tackle with a little information and some electrical home safety savvy. If your home has a fuse box, the best advice is to plan ahead and become familiar with the electrical panel and with the types of fuses it requires.
So yes, there is a thermal fuse under the control panel of the oven. Below is what the fuse looks like. Test continuity through this fuse and if it has no continuity--replace it.
Firstly, visually inspect the fuse and see if the filament inside is intact or broken. A blown fuse typically has a broken filament and a black or gray discoloration around it. Secondly, if your device isn't working despite being plugged in and switched on, it's likely that the fuse has blown.
If this happens, what you're going to want to do is to unplug any other appliances connected to the circuit and then switch the oven on. This should correct the tripping issues. It might be the case that you need to upgrade the over circuit, increasing capacity or adding the appliances to another circuit.
A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse.
Many electric ranges include a fuse in the 120-volt circuit that operates such items as oven and stovetop lights, the electric clock, convenience outlets, etc.