Most engineered flooring can be installed using staples, full spread adhesive or a floating method over an approved subfloor. Make sure you have a sturdy subfloor: 3/4-inch CDX plywood is preferred and 3/4-inch OSB is acceptable.
Hardwood flooring is best installed over a plywood subfloor rather than particleboard. Particleboard can expand and contract with moisture changes, potentially causing hardwood to buckle or warp. Installing plywood provides a stable, moisture-resistant base for hardwood.
Select an underlayment suitable for your wood flooring type. The underlayment can provide a moisture barrier, sound insulation, and cushioning. The moisture barrier is of utmost importance, as concrete will naturally emit moisture in the form of vapor.
Simply put, underlayment is a layer of material between your subfloor and your floor. While some flooring comes with the underlayment attached, others will require you to install a separate underlayment. Most of the time, underlayment consists of rubber, cork, foam, or felt.
Yes, it is perfectly feasible to fit both solid wood flooring and engineered flooring directly to joists. However, in certain instances, it might be advantageous to consider laying a plywood or chipboard subfloor first.
Bathrooms and laundry rooms are rooms where you should not install hardwood floors. Separately stands the basement, where it is not recommended to install hardwood flooring under almost any conditions. Humidity, the possibility of spills, and floods make these rooms dangerous for hardwood flooring.
You have the top layer that is your floor covering (Hardwood, Laminate, Vinyl, Carpet, etc.), next you have the underlayment (usually a thin layer of fiber, foam, rubber), below that you have your subfloor (plywood, OSB, concrete), and lastly you have the joists which are the foundation to your floors.
It is beneficial to install hardwood floors with an underlayment. Despite the slight increase in cost and time, the added protection will benefit your floor long-term by reducing moisture. Additionally, increasing noise and evening out minor subfloor flaws without requiring substantial rework.
Significant gaps can occur in boards which are poor quality or poorly fitted. Some gaps are entirely preventable by choosing the right craftsman. If the subfloor is wet, moisture can rise into the wooden floor causing it to expand and potentially to warp and cup and therefore create gaps.
It serves multiple purposes, the biggest of which is moisture protection. The underlayment acts as a barrier between your subfloor and hardwood, potentially saving your investment from damage caused by moisture. This is particularly important in humid climates or homes with moisture-emitting concrete subfloors.
The tighter grip they provide makes screws the superior long term solution. If you have a solid wood floor (not floating engineered installation) the best option is to screw and glue your floor, thus increasing its stability substantially and preventing squeakiness.
Hardwood, Engineered Wood, and Laminate:
For these types of flooring, a minimum subfloor thickness of 3/4-inch is crucial, whether you choose plywood or Oriented Strand Board (OSB). This thickness is necessary to provide a sturdy and stable base that can support the nails or glue used to secure the flooring materials.
During the hotter and more humid months of the year, hardwood flooring will absorb moisture from the air, which causes it to expand and swell. The expansion of the boards can cause them to warp. Floor planks can create excess pressure when they absorb humidity, forcing boards to adjust to relieve the pressure.
What is the Best Underlayment for Hardwood Floors? Felt is used as underlayment for hardwood floors. It forms a hard surface without making the planks wet, which can cause them to warp. Cork is also a good choice, as it resists moisture and supports heavy loads on wood.
When it comes to new flooring installation, it pays to invest in a quality underlayment for your hardwood floors. Wood is a beautiful product, but it requires extra support to provide the best outcome for residents of homes, apartments, office buildings, and more.
Today, practically all manufacturers follow to some degree what the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends. And one of their recommendations is the use of asphalt felt paper over wood sub floors.
Conclusion. Choosing the right underlayment or vapor barrier is essential for ensuring the longevity and performance of your hardwood floors.
Most engineered flooring can be installed using staples, full spread adhesive or a floating method over an approved subfloor. Make sure you have a sturdy subfloor: 3/4-inch CDX plywood is preferred and 3/4-inch OSB is acceptable.
Thoroughly vacuum the existing floor, and use a long floor leveler and tape measure to ensure the subfloor is level within 3/16 inch for every 10 feet. You'll need to know how to level a floor: Just sand any high spots and fill the low spots with leveling compound.
Most experts agree that the maximum tolerance for a subfloor is 3/16” over a ten-foot span. Any dips or mounds exceeding this measurement need to be addressed before installation.
Wall studs are nailed vertically to the bottom wall plate, and the wall plate itself is nailed (downward) into the subfloor, with nails even extending into the joist. All items except underlayment and floor covering rest under and are nailed to the bottom wall plate.
Half-Inch Plywood
The most common plywood thickness used as subflooring, half-inch plywood is a solid choice for most homes with standard-width flooring joists. Because of the difficulty and cost to replace subflooring, however, be sure that half-inch plywood is strong enough for your job before installing it.
Rather than nails, screws are best to use for subfloors — these fasteners are convenient, easy to remove and capable of providing torque that nails lack. Because of their structure, screws can penetrate plywood more easily and improve the connection, whereas nails can weaken the plywood.