Cedar offers a durable option for exterior and interior building projects with natural resistance to rot and decay, so a protective finish is optional. If you want to enjoy the aroma of varieties such as Western Red Cedar and incense cedar, leave the wood unsealed.
If you leave cedar wood untreated, it will not succumb to the devastating effects of mold, rot and insect damage. However, it will lose its typically golden-brown color.
If you are looking to preserve the beautiful rich grain of, say, a mahogany or cedar decking, we recommend sealing the deck with a translucent penetrating stain within 1-2 weeks of construction. This will ensure minimal or no UV damage and give your deck that natural look.
The best clear Cedar finish stain for outdoors is Linseed oil, hands down. Linseed oil is the primary ingredient in any oil finishes, which dries clear. You can find other clear water-based stains, but will not last nearly as long as a Linseed oil based stain will.
Over time, the pores in the wood open up, and more stain will absorb. You really have to keep up on it at first, though, in order to prevent the sun's ultra-violet (UV) rays from damaging the siding. A film-forming urethane can give your cedar a longer lifespan.
Rough sawn cedar is a traditional building material in common use on exterior applications such as siding, sheds and other out buildings. You can leave the wood untreated to weather naturally, painted or stained. Staining with a solid color stain is an effective option when using rough cedar.
Use a wide brush to apply vertical strokes of stain along the grain. Stir the stain first, then use a 4 to 6 in (10 to 15 cm) natural bristle brush to apply it to the wood. Work your way along the grain using long, vertical strokes, from one side of the piece to the other.
Rot, premature aging, and warping can occur from the weather and elements when the boards aren't sealed. Finishing off your newly-installed cedar deck with a sealant or wood stain will help to prolong the life, beauty, and appeal of the deck for years to come.
Caution. Transparent, non-flexible, film-forming finishes such as lacquer, shellac, urethane, and varnish are not recommended for exterior use on cedar. Ultraviolet radiation can penetrate the transparent film and degrade the wood.
Although cedar is naturally resistant to rot and decay, staining your siding promptly will help in the preventing of deterioration.
To prevent cedar from fading to gray, you need to seal cedar fence with a stain that blocks ultraviolet light and contains a mildewcide, according to Family Handyman.
In outdoor structures that are not in contact with the ground, such as decks, gazebos, pergolas and fence boards, cedar may last 30 years or longer. When in contact with the ground, such as when it's used for fence or support posts, it can last between 15 and 20 years.
Cedar accepts most finishes well, including penetrating oils, such as tung oil and linseed oil. Penetrating oils are especially effective for sealing the grain while leaving the wood looking raw and natural. Just like exterior applications, your interior sealing projects should start with clean cedar.
We recommend you wait 3+ months to stain new smooth cedar wood surfaces to allow the wood to weather, creating an ideal porous surface that will hold the stain better.
Cedar wood, like other fine woods, can and should be coated with polyurethane for protection. Polyurethane will keep dirt, dust, and oil from getting onto the cedar which would dull and damage the color.
For outdoor use, cedar furniture is widely viewed as a good choice. Less expensive than teak and lighter than oak, cedar possesses many major advantages that make it suitable for outdoor placement. Keep the benefits of cedar in mind when deciding which type of furniture to add to your garden or patio area.
The answer is, Yes, linseed oil is one the most recommended finishes for cedar woods. For a reason that it thrives on humid weather and reduces the sunlight damage. Ideally suited for patio furniture as they need extra care from weather, so it is an ideal solution.
That aroma is pleasant for people, but unpleasant for moths and insects, so cedar is an ideal choice for lining chests that hold blankets, linen and other fabrics. The aroma comes from organic compounds in the wood called thujaplicins, and it fades after a few years, even if you keep the chest closed.
Boiled linseed oil, despite not providing much water-resistance to wood when applied in the usual way associated with furniture, will do much to slow the weathering to that natural grey/silver colour if applied heavily and re-applied periodically.
If left in its natural state, some darkening of the wood can be expected as it ages and the color variation will become less pronounced. Application of transparent finishes will also darken western red cedar to some degree but they form a protective surface that is easier to maintain.
Sand the cedar with 80-grit sandpaper to remove gray, weathered wood and remnants of the old finish. Follow up with 180-grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface. Sand in long, even strokes and avoid leaving any patterns on the wood.
Priming western red cedar helps the wood's natural properties stay put. Without a primer, tannins from within the cedar mix with moisture and seep to the wood's surface, naturally staining and discoloring the surface.
It's possible to stain over existing stain and much easier than painting over it. As long as you clean and prepare the surface properly, you can do another long-lasting stain job.
Easy Application Tips for Staining Rough Sawn Wood
Rough textured wood also known as “rough sawn” is wood that is used as originally cut. It has not been smoothed out or sanded in most cases. Wood like this is a bit more difficult to stain than smooth textured wood but it does not have to be an overwhelming task.