However, bottom watering is a more controlled method of watering your plants. By remembering to check your plant every ten minutes or so while it's sitting in water, you can significantly reduce your chances of overwatering and causing root rot.
This could lead to overwatering unless you leave the pot in the water for long enough. But then the soil might have a hard time draining, which can mean your plant is sitting in soggy soil for too long. Not good! With a well-draining pot and aerated soil, overwatering shouldn't be an issue when bottom watering.
The downside of bottom watering plants
In terms of plant health, there aren't a lot of drawbacks to watering plants from the bottom. However, one consideration would be that continual bottom watering could lead to a build up of minerals and excess salts in the growing medium, especially if you're using tap water.
Bottom watering assures evenly moisturized soil, which is a must for many plants. Healthy root development. Not that top watering doesn't promote healthy roots, but bottom watering promotes even spread and growth towards the base of the pot, which is what's most natural to plants.
Bottom watering is generally beneficial for a wide range of plants, but it's important to consider the specific needs of your plant. Some plants, like succulents, may be more susceptible to root rot if overwatered from the bottom.
That's not the case when bottom watering. All you need to do is set the potted plant (be sure it has drainage holes) into the bathtub, sink, or another container that's filled with a couple inches of water. After 15 to 20 minutes, the plant will have absorbed the exact amount it needs—never too little or too much.
These plants are prime candidates for bottom watering: Plants with hairy or fuzzy leaves, such as African violets, or plants that don't like getting their leaves wet, such as snake plants, Philodendron verrucosum, and P. micans.
"Bottom watering prevents overwatering".
Most plant parents are encouraged to use pots with drainage holes in the bottom. This is one of the very best ways to prevent overwatering and root rot, as excess water will simply drain out of the holes and can then be poured away.
Bottom watering doesn't flood the soil surface, so the topsoil tends to dry out faster using this method. It would be better not to allow water to penetrate all the way to the surface; but, even so, bottom watering will still help reduce your gnat population.
The two main nutrients that support excellent root growth in plants are phosphorous and potassium. These two ingredients are extremely helpful in any fertilizer mix that needs to encourage a thick, healthy collection of brand-new roots, or to strengthen and stimulate existing systems.
When bottom watering potted plants, the key is in the timing. Push your finger into the soil between the wall of the container and the stem of the plant. If you push down to the second knuckle and still don't feel moist soil, it's time to water the plant.
Because the water isn't going top-down, it doesn't remove any salts from the soil. Bottom watering is more time-consuming—you have to check your plant, fill the tray, wait for it to absorb, and drain the excess as well. We'll be honest: for larger plants, this method can take quite a bit of time.
“Bottom-watering” is when you put your parched plant in a bucket of water and let it soak up what it needs through the drainage hole. (It's very fun. “Like a magic trick,” said Adams.) This keeps the top of your soil dry and therefore gnat-egg-proof.
When plants have too little water, leaves turn brown and wilt. This also occurs when plants have too much water. The biggest difference between the two is that too little water will result in your plant's leaves feeling dry and crispy to the touch while too much water results in soft and limp leaves.
Cyperus. If your houseplants repeatedly succumb to root rot, get yourself a cyperus. Cyperus plants have tall grass-like shoots topped with slender bracts that droop downward in an umbrella shape. Cyperus are natives of tropical swamps, so it's virtually impossible to overwater them.
Gardening FAQ
The problem with your soil resisting hydration is not uncommon. It usually begins with the soil being watered incompletely and then drying more than it should. After that it can become hydrophobic and actually repel water! The ingredient in the soil that is causing that problem is peat.
He recommends: 'Using a mixture of bottom watering for every day with top watering to wash away the build-up of salts and minerals will keep your plants healthy, strong and well-watered. ' The build-up of salts should be dealt with every couple of months by watering from above.
Mulch, mulch, and mulch some more!
Cover your soil with a blanket of organic material such as straw, leaves, shredded paper or cardboard, or bark. This will moderate soil temperature, prevent runoff and evaporation, and hold moisture in the for longer periods between waterings.
Allowing the soil to dry out in between waterings (while not stressing the plant) is really important for preventing disease, mold, and growing stronger and healthier plants. Less frequent but deeper watering is better than frequent shallow waterings (once plants are established).
Look out for signs of overwatering – including a limp plant, yellowing leaves, or dropping leaves. If you see these signs, test the soil with your fingers. It should be pretty obvious if it's soggy! Stop watering and let the soil dry out.
Hanging planters are best as self watering pots or pots with DEEP drainage plates so you can bottom water easily and less often.
Plants are sensitive to harmful chemicals in tap water
While regular tap water could be fine for some outdoor plants, we should proceed with caution with house plants known to have chemical sensitivities.
Larger plants might need a few hours, whereas small plants in smaller pots will take considerably less time. Some people even bottom water their plants overnight. I prefer not to, because I like to check in on the moisture level and if the bowl needs to be refilled mid-way through.