First, during tile installation, leave a small space between the tiles and the wood surface or countertop… no more than 1/8 of an inch.
For a more durable job, choose a grout that is fortified with polymers. The one spot where caulk, not grout, should be used is the seam between the countertop and the backsplash. The right material for that is a top-quality silicone caulk. The Tile Council of America suggests a 1/8-in.
Backsplash height should be all the way from the Countertop to the bottom of upper cabinets. I strongly suggest designing it like this, otherwise, it will look outdated like on the bottom image. Also, it protects water spillage much better if it is made all the way up to upper cabinets.
Run your kitchen backsplash between upper and lower cabinets. The backsplash connects the two sets of cabinets, which helps the room feel bigger and more cohesive. Do not put a backsplash behind your fridge unless you can clearly see that wall.
To prevent cracking in the grout between the bottom row of tile and the countertop edge, do not use grout at all. Houses settle over time, and this edge needs a more flexible material – use caulk instead.
Cover the Gap With Trim
The most reliable way to cover a large gap is to use wood trim, and even though you can't nail it to the tile backsplash or the granite countertop, you can glue it. You want the trim to be as inconspicuous as possible, and wood quarter-round is usually the best choice.
Well, the short answer would be a simple no – you should not attempt to install tile without grout.
Leave the Edge Alone
Complete the edge by applying a piece of painter's tape to the wall next to the tiles. Squeeze a thin line of caulk down the outside edge of the tiles where they meet the wall. This blends the tiles into the wall, giving it a clean, finished look.
When installing tile, leave a 1/8 inch (3 mm) gap between tile and cabinets. Fill the gap between the tile and cabinet with color-matched caulk. Then, smooth it with this caulking tool.
A standard backsplash is typically 4 inches high from the countertop. A full backsplash comes as high as you need, most homeowners have it all the way up to the height of the kitchen cabinets.
Step 1: Lay Out Your Backsplash Tile Design
If you are doing a straight wall—like my laundry nook, it's best to start at the center and work your way outward. However, if you are doing a corner, it's better to start in the corner and work your way out.
Backsplashes need to line up with the upper cabinet.
Usually the end of the backsplash tile, if aligned with the uppers, will die ON TOP OF the countertop below.
The bottom of the upper cabinets, the bottom of a window, or the range hood are common lines to use as a guide for where to end your backsplash. Too many lines can make the room feel disjointed; continuing existing lines keeps the look unified and clean.
A countertop needs to be installed before the backsplash is put on the walls above the countertop.
Caulking the Gap
If you can reduce the gap to 1/4 inch or less, you'll be able to fill it with acrylic latex or silicone caulk. If the gap is wider, stuff some backer rod in first. This is foam beading that supports the caulk and prevents it from sinking and forming voids.
It's essential to use caulk where the backsplash meets the kitchen counter, as well as at the top and edges of the backsplash. This prevents water from seeping in between your tile and the wall or trickling in behind your countertop. Water that infiltrates your wall in this way can cause mold, rot, and damage.
The purpose of a backsplash is primarily functional. It protects the wall behind the sink against water damage from inadvertent splashing. In the kitchen, backsplashes cover other parts of the countertop beside the sink area.
Bullnose tiles have one curved edge that finishes a tile installation neatly without exposing the unglazed ceramic or porcelain edges. To finish a backsplash without bullnose tiles, you'll need to disguise the unglazed edge of the tiles with trim molding or caulk.
The only time tile trim may not be needed is when the tile meets flush against other surfaces like wall corners or floor edges. Continuous tile designs can also be used instead of installing tile trim (but the tile edges should be glazed to remove rough, sharp edges).
If you're in a kitchen, and you're doing the countertop-to-upper-cabinet-18”-high-backsplash, it's best not to wrap that around to the side wall if you don't need to. As I always say... Transitioning materials on an inside corner is always best.
Will your tiles break if there are no spacers? The short answer is yes, tiles are more susceptible to breakage and popping when installed without the use of spacers. This is due to the thermal properties of tiles and how they are subject to expansion and contraction because of the same.
Yes. Most subway tile has grooves on the sides so you don't need to use spacers at all because it's an automatic 1/16″ grout line.
Porcelain, ceramic, metal, and glass tile top the easy-care list because they resist staining, are naturally nonporous, and don't require any special cleansers to do the job.
Skinny backsplashes are out of style, we are happy to report. A ceramic tile or glass backsplash that stretches from counter to cabinets is much easier to keep clean, and is more likely to catch spills and splatters.
You need a backsplash behind the stove to protect from grease and cooking splatter that could damage the surface behind the stove. The backsplash should be made of durable, nonabsorbent, and easy to clean material that will not discolor easily.