If you're planning on sealing your concrete, this is the most important step. If you do not neutralize and clean the floor with Neutra Clean™, your Kemiko sealer cannot bond correctly. More about Kemiko Neutra Clean™ Neutralizer and Degreaser. More about Kemiko Stone Tone™ Concrete Acid Stain.
You don't want all your hard work to go to waste by not neutralizing the acid stain properly. Ensuring proper neutralization is crucial for sealer bonding and a durable, aesthetically pleasing finish. Without it, you might end up with a peeling, blotchy surface that just won't do justice to your efforts.
Neutralize the stain using Ammonia and water once the stain has dried for at least 8 hours. I'd recommend using 2 cups of ammonia per 5 gallon bucket of water. Once neutralized, the acid will no longer react.
Conclusion. So, there really isn't a benefit to not sealing your concrete unless for some reason you want it to have a duller color. We would still advise sealing the concrete, but applying a matte wax instead of a glossy one to get the appearance that you desire.
An unsealed, decorative stained concrete surface will show faded colors in a matter of a few months. You could advise your customer that's what happens with an unsealed project and let them make the decision about sealing, but rest assured that an “I told you so,” from you when the fading happens will not comfort them.
Protecting the Acid Stained Finish
It would crumble under foot traffic and quickly turn dull. The surface must be protected with a clear coating which will also provide gloss and enhance the hues. The choice of topical sealers is very wide and includes water- or solvent-based acrylics, urethanes, and epoxies.
Allow the acid stain to penetrate the entire concrete surface and fully develop its color for from 5 to 24 hours (check manufacturer's instructions for exact timing). The longer you leave the acid stain on, the deeper the final hue will be.
Acid stains are a reactive coloring process that penetrates into the porous concrete surface. This is probably the most permanent of all coloring options but is usually limited to eight colors.
Any concrete that is not properly neutralized will begin decomposing immediately. It may take time for the damage to reach the surface where you can see it, but it is happening and is usually irrepairable.
Once that stain chemically reacts for a minimum of four to six hours—typically, you'll leave an acid stain overnight—it brings salts to the surface. All of these salts are like a powdery residue.
Though new concrete may not always require a second coat of acid stain, older concrete does require two coats of stain for complete coverage. For a more diffuse look, spray the stain onto the surface without brushing.
4. After the desired color tone has been achieved, use a cotton or rayon mop to mop a solution consisting of a ½ pound of baking soda mixed in 5 gallons of clean water onto the stained area. DO NOT SCRUB THE STAINED AREA.
Wet concrete can burn your skin, while concrete dust can hurt your lungs. Acid stain is comparatively pretty safe — but there are still some safety procedures you should consider. While acid stains can cause burns, those are easy to avoid.
Drying time(final coat)- 4 hours minimum to overnight to 24 hours. Neutralizing and Cleaning the Residue from the Acid Stain will take one neutralizing and rinsing twice. Allow to completely dry for Clear Shield water base sealers. Allow to dry to be bone dry, for Solvent Base sealers.
Acid stains or Chemical stains react with the lime in concrete and color the concrete whereas concrete dyes offer transparent colors to the concrete surface.
Brushing acid stain is different for all concrete surfaces. It's easier to hand brush a smooth hard-troweled floor than it is to brush a heavily broomed floor. Be aware and prepared for this ahead of time. It's also easier to see brush marks on smooth surfaces than it is to see them on rougher textures.
The problems that are most commonly noted with acid staining are related to application. If too much or not enough stain is applied, the results can be unattractive. This can be corrected by using the correct amount of stain. Using heavy coats of stain does not always help color develop better.
There are many ways to go about layering acid stains, but a common approach is to cover the entire floor with a diluted color, then spot-stain sections with less diluted or undiluted colors, often using faux techniques such as ragging or sponging.
Wood is dried-out and dull if you do not apply some sort of sealer. Staining and finishing are two very different things.
One of the very best sealers on the market today for acid-stained concrete and other types of decorative concrete flooring is the "polyurea". Polyurea is extremely durable, long-lasting and easy to maintain. Most clear sealers for concrete come in water and solvent-based versions.
Allow the stain to cure for a full 24 hours, then spread the sealer along the floor as directed on the label. Drying time for the sealer can vary depending on environmental conditions. Plan on two days for it to completely harden. Consider using a concrete floor polish to help reduce slipping and scuffing.
Concrete should be sealed to protect from mold and mildew.
Because concrete is a porous material, it has a tendency to absorb moisture. When this moisture doesn't dry and the surface is left wet for an extended period of time, mildew begins to form and mold begins to grow.
Sealing concrete is not a requirement, but most experts will recommend it depending on the placement and environment. Flat surfaces benefit the most from concrete sealant since it dries evenly and seeps into the small crevices.