No, stain is applied as the first coat before varnish because stain needs to absorb into wood.
Water-based varnish dries completely transparent, allowing the natural grain of the wood to show through. Oil-based varnish may have a slight yellow tinge to the color after it dries, so if this isn't appealing, you may want to consider a stain or a water-based varnish.
Traditional wood varnish is brushed or sprayed onto the wood. 2 Multiple coats are typically applied to build up a protective layer. Allow to dry between coats. 3 Sand and polish to achieve the desired finish.
To prepare wood is simple as sanding it smooth and removing any marks or stains, some stains may need to be removed with a wood cleaning solution. If you are unsure if you have remove all the marks etc get a lint free rag and some turpentine, wipe the wood with the rag slightly moistened with turps.
Excessive working of the varnish on top of the stain will re-hydrate the stain and may result in the dragging of the colour or the colour becoming intermixed with the clear varnish. A way to avoid this is to use solvent-based stains under water-based varnishes or water-based stains under solvent-based varnishes.
Apply first coat of varnish on clean, new wood or once stain is dry (no sanding required), with a brush, pad or other applicator. Apply several light coats of varnish (following each product's advised dry time), keeping a wet edge and wipe off to avoid lap marks.
Polyurethane works better on wooden surfaces that are indoors. While varnish is durable and inexpensive, it's best suited for softer woods. Polyurethane dries quicker and requires fewer coats but won't hold up in the outdoors. You'll need to use personal protective equipment when applying both products.
Use white spirit and a lint-free cloth to wipe down the surface and remove grease, dirt and dust. Use 120-grit sandpaper to smooth the surface. This will help the varnish stick and will give you a smooth finish. If you removed the previous coat with sandpaper, you don't need to do this step.
The allure of a fresh coat of paint is undeniable, but when it comes to varnished wood, skipping the sanding step can be a tempting shortcut with disastrous consequences. It's like trying to build a sandcastle on ice – the paint may cling precariously for a while, but eventually, it's all going to come crashing down.
Applying a Sealer before a varnish is necessary to provide protection to the wood. The sealer creates a protective barrier that prevents the varnish from seeping into the wood pores.
It's best to use a brush with natural rather than synthetic bristles for oil-based finishes, and synthetic brushes (often called 'nylon' brushes) for acrylic or water-based varnishes. But you can also use rollers or rags for both kinds of finish.
To enhance the wood's color, staining should be fine. But to protect the wood against any chipping from impact, or from the elements, varnishing is your best choice. Many woodworkers decide to stain and varnish a wooden surface at the same time. Note if you use a water-based stain, use a water-based varnish.
Wood-boring pests may begin carving out holes in your deck's boards, moisture from rain and snow will seep into the wood's pores and cause rot and warping, and harsh sunlight will cause permanent discoloration.
Oils, like tung oil, linseed oil, and Danish oil, appear more natural and greatly enhance the existing grain pattern of the wood. If you love the current appearance of the wood and want to preserve the look as much as possible, a clear stain or polyurethane finish is a good choice.
Satin varnish is a bit more expensive than other types of varnish, but it's worth the investment if you want your furniture to looking its best. Glossy varnish is a type of clear coating typically applied to wood surfaces (e.g. floors or tables) to protect them and give them a shiny, polished appearance.
"As long as they are good quality, both oil and varnish provide reliable protection. Oil looks more natural than varnish, however, while matt varnish can have a very subtle effect and it can actually be hard to tell the difference between it and oil.
As well as waterproofing the wood, varnish can also prevent wooden surfaces from getting scratched. Finishing wood with a product such as varnish, serves to protect wood from the little knocks and spills that are inevitable in a busy family home.
If you do decide to go ahead and apply new varnish over the top of old varnish, make sure that the existing varnish is scratch-free and do give the old varnish a light sanding using 120-grit sandpaper and wiping away any dust. This will ensure that the new varnish has something to bond to.
For a very durable finish and one that needs to be very tough, say on a kitchen table, coffee table or end table etc, 2 to 3 coats of varnish should be enough on the top, with 1 to 2 coats on the legs/base. For chairs, benches, chests and other such pieces, 1 to 2 coats should do the trick.
While polyurethane is water- or oil-based plastic resin, varnish is older and made from resins, oils, and solvents. Because of the higher ratio of solids, varnish is less susceptible to ultraviolet light damage. This protection makes varnish an excellent choice for projects such as outside decks and exterior furniture.
PolyVine Heavy Duty Floor Varnish. This is the hardest of all 'one pack' varnishes.
Stain by itself will not offer a ton of protection because it is absorbed into the wood and is not sitting on top of it as polyurethane does. Polyurethane is available as both oil-based and water-based, as well as for interior and exterior use.
Varathane is a brand name of polyurethane varnish that's been around since 1958. It's used as a wood, furniture, cabinet, and floor finish.