Yes, just as you would with a paint brush. Natural fiber roller covers made with mohair or a blend of polyester and lamb's wool are usually recommended for oil-based paints, varnishes and stains. Synthetic fiber roller covers, on the other hand, are most often recommended for applying latex paints.
Foam rollers are best for applying oil-based gloss. They don't really hold enough paint for any other type of material.
Rollers also work better on trim when using oil paints... the paint dries slower and so has more time to flow. Latex paints tack up quickly, so when you back roll something with a roller, it's already tacky and so the stipple quickly dries before it has a chance to smooth out.
To achieve a smooth finish in oil paintings, you can use a technique called glazing, applying multiple thin layers of paint. You can also use a soft brush and work in small sections, carefully blending the paint without leaving brush strokes.
There is not much difference between using a brush and roller on a door. I use a brush because oil based undercoats should be worked into the wood to give the best protection and first layer, a roller doesn't quite achieve this. Going with the grains of the wood is easier with a brush.
The advantage of the slow-drying quality of oil paint is that an artist can develop a painting gradually, making changes or corrections if necessary. Oil paints blend well with each other, making subtle variations of colour possible as well as more easily creating details of light and shadow.
Lambswool rollers
Natural fibres like lambswool are best for applying thicker, oil-based paints. They have a longer pile than other rollers, making them ideal for painting textured surfaces like masonry.
When painting a wall, go horizontal with your brush strokes. This technique can minimize visible streaks, creating a seamless and uniform finish. For an extra level of smoothness, consider mixing additives like water or linseed oil with your paint to prevent brush marks.
Untreated, or right out of the tube, oil paints usually dry to a semi-gloss that will stay looking “wetter” than most of acrylics will. Thicker paint will be glossier. Mixing a thinner or medium can adjust the finish of an oil painting up to a high gloss or down to a matte finish, but it won't be perfectly even.
White China—These natural bristle brushes are best used with oil-based paints, especially enamels and varnishes. Ideal for woodwork, enamels, or marine applications, White China bristles virtually eliminate brush marks.
Go slow when you're rolling and don't try and spread out the paint too thinly. Just roll back and forth slowly and put on plenty of paint, unless you're planning multiple coats. If you are, follow the recoat times to the letter. One last thing, dump the roller tray.
Today, I want to discuss three art materials that I've used and that often find their way into oil painters' studios. While they may have their benefits, these materials should be avoided or used with caution to ensure the longevity and integrity of your artwork. The culprits? Zinc Oxide, Clove Oil, and Solvents.
Natural bristle is the best choice for oil-based paints, varnishes, shellac, alkyd enamels, oil stains and oil-based polyurethanes. The highest quality bristles come from mainland China. Experienced, traditional painters will say there's nothing like the finish that a China bristle can provide for oil-based coatings.
Applying layers of paint
Start by adding areas of shadow and light, fill in large areas with color, then work patiently, laying on more and more intense layers of color. You need to follow the golden rule of oil painting: painting "thick on thin" .
Walls, Wood, and Metal - Small 1/4″ roller covers or foam rollers will produce the smoothest finish. Light to Medium Textured Surfaces - Microfiber rollers are best.
Oil based paints also work well on the exterior of the house because they hold up well against the elements. Painting with oil can be difficult because the paint is thicker and harder to stir and spread. You cannot shake oil paint like you can latex paint. It tends to bubble up when you put it on the wall.
Use a custom medium made of Stand Oil, Dammar Varnish, and Turpentine. You can replace the Stand Oil with Wax is you want a more impasto finish. Once dry you still varnish the painting with a high gloss Dammar varnish. That is the best results I have gotten when going for a very high gloss finish.
Depending on how thick you paint and what paint or pigment you use, oils can be dry to the touch in 2 days to several weeks. But it can take anywhere from 3 months to a year (or longer) for oil paintings to be fully dry. This is because there is a curing process that oil paints need to go through.
In the past gloss paint was oil based, was prone to yellowing and could even contain harmful lead. Thankfully this is no longer the case as modern gloss paints are waterbased, with minimal VOC content and provide the benefits of a hardwearing paint without the drawback of yellowing over time.
Brush Care
Avoid dipping a dry brush into oil paint. For natural hair brushes, first, dip the brush into painting medium. This distributes the natural oils of the brush hairs and allows each hair to load properly with paint. Different levels of the painting require different types of brush hair.
Yes, just as you would with a paint brush. Natural fiber roller covers made with mohair or a blend of polyester and lamb's wool are usually recommended for oil-based paints, varnishes and stains. Synthetic fiber roller covers, on the other hand, are most often recommended for applying latex paints.
Laying-off your wall means giving it a smooth consistent finish and hiding those streaky brush strokes. Simply place your unloaded roller at the top left corner of your wall. Ensure the handle side of your roller is to the right. Then with almost zero pressure roll straight down your wall until you reach the bottom.