Applying chalk paint directly to bare wood is highly effective and requires minimal prep work. However, because raw wood is highly porous, it will quickly absorb the moisture and pigment, potentially causing uneven application, excessive brush drag, or "bleed-through" stains from wood tannins.
Sanding prep work with chalk and milk paint
You don't need to sand all the way down to bare wood when using these paints, just take off what comes off naturally. I use a palm sander with a 40-80 grit first time around. Then a 180-220 grit second time. Prep work may be tedious but worth it in the end.
The best paint for unfinished wood depends on your project, but overall top recommendations are water-based alkyd enamels (like Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel) or high-quality acrylics. Raw wood is highly absorbent, so always apply a Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer first to prevent natural tannins from bleeding through and ruining the paint.
While chalk paint is famous for its easy, matte finish and minimal prep work, it has several notable downsides. It can be expensive, easily absorbs stains, scuffs easily, and requires time-consuming sealing with wax or a top coat to prevent wear.
Stain blocking will keep the knotty tannins from bleeding through. Urethane, like Sherwin Williams emerald urethane trim enamel will hold up well to the wear. Shellac primer is best for knotty wood and tannin bleed, especially if your painting it white or a light color.
To seal bare wood before painting, sand the surface smooth, wipe away all dust, and apply a high-quality stain-blocking primer. For dense or sappy woods, use an oil-based or shellac-based primer; for standard woods, a high-quality water-based primer works perfectly. This prevents the wood from absorbing paint unevenly and stops stains from bleeding through.
Yes, you can paint wood without primer, especially if you are applying an all-in-one paint, refreshing a piece with the same color, or skipping bare wood surfaces entirely. However, skipping primer can lead to chipping, peeling, or paint bleeding over time.
Tjhoko Paint can be used on wood, metal, glass, natural fabrics, laminated surfaces and previously varnished surfaces with no sanding or priming required (just a thorough wipe down with Lacquer thinners) – Tjhoko Paint is truly a revolutionary product!
Yes, you should seal chalk paint to protect it from stains, dirt, and wear, especially on high-use items like furniture or cabinets. While not strictly necessary for decorative items, sealing ensures the porous paint remains durable and adds a polished finish, typically using wax, lacquer, or polycrylic.
Red is universally considered the hardest paint color to cover. Vibrant red pigments are highly transparent and inherently prone to bleeding through subsequent layers. Other notoriously difficult colors to cover include black, dark blue, dark green, and bright yellow.
Yes, you should always prime raw (bare) wood before painting. Raw wood is highly porous, so it acts like a sponge. Without a primer, the wood will absorb your expensive paint unevenly, requiring many more coats to achieve an even, opaque finish.
For the absolute toughest, most durable finish on wood, use acrylic-urethane or oil-based alkyd enamels. These paints cure into a rigid, scratch-resistant shell that withstands heavy impacts, scuffing, and scrubbing. For the ultimate longevity, you should always sand and prime the wood before application.
Professional painters work quickly not because they rush, but because they eliminate wasted motion through systematic routines, specialized tools, and strategic task sequencing.
You can apply Chalk Paint® using a dry brush or wet brush technique. The difference really is in the finish you'll achieve. For a smooth, even look, you want to really charge your paint brush with Chalk Paint®. The brush is wet with paint meaning it will go really far and give the best coverage.
Skipping Proper Surface Preparation. One of the biggest mistakes is diving straight into painting without preparing your surface. Dirt, grease, and glossy finishes can all prevent chalk paint from adhering properly, leading to uneven coverage or chipping.
Chalk paint is designed to adhere to most surfaces without sanding or priming, making it a favorite for quick DIY projects. Because of its unique composition, you can often skip the sanding, but success relies on proper cleaning, the right paint, and applying a protective topcoat.
Whichever piece of furniture you're painting, you don't have to worry about sanding or priming first. You can get straight into the fun bit! Chalk Paint® has incredible sticking power and will go onto almost any surface, even varnished pine or laminate.
I prefer wax because Poly will give light colors a yellow tint. I have used oil based polyurethane over chalk paint. It intensified the color and I loved working with it.
The best sealer for chalk paint depends on your project’s wear-and-tear. For high-traffic surfaces like tables and cabinets, water-based polyacrylics (like Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish) provide superior, rock-hard durability. For decorative pieces and a classic, velvety, or antique look, use furniture wax (like Annie Sloan Clear Chalk Paint Wax).
The best way to apply chalk paint is to clean the surface, paint in multi-directional strokes for a matte, textured look, and seal it with furniture wax or lacquer. It requires minimal prep, but following the correct application and sealing process is key to a long-lasting finish.
Painting wood without primer typically leads to poor adhesion, resulting in peeling, chipping, and premature wear. The wood will absorb the paint unevenly, requiring multiple coats for a patchy finish, while tannins and knots in the wood can bleed through, causing permanent yellow or brown stains.
The best primer for chalk paint depends on your project, but the top overall choices are Zinsser B-I-N for blocking wood tannins and Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 for general adhesion. If your furniture is very slick, a dedicated bonding primer like Dixie Belle Bonding BOSS is ideal.
The best primer for unfinished wood depends on your specific project, but the gold standards are Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer for extreme stain/tannin blocking, Zinsser Cover Stain or Kilz Original for exterior/durable oil-based priming, and Kilz Premium for a low-odor water-based application.
The hardest colors to paint over are red, black, and deep, dark blues or greens. Because of their strong, saturated pigments, these colors easily bleed through lighter topcoats. Attempting to cover them without proper preparation often results in streaks and requires many frustrating, time-consuming coats of paint.
Adding baking soda to acrylic paint acts as a thickening and texturizing agent, turning the paint into a thick, gritty paste with a matte finish. While great for crafts and faux-ceramic decor, it disrupts the paint’s chemical binders, which can cause cracking and peeling over time.