Years of heat exposure may have caused irreparable damage, but sometimes a simple realignment can fix the issue. The plate on the bottom of the damper normally pivots in a notch along the back of the damper's opening. If it's not doing that, shift the damper plate until it does.
You are most likely going to need to cut the existing damper out, and install a new chimney top damper. There may be a fireplace contractor that can repair it, but for efficiency's sake putting a chimney top damper in will be the best route, in my opinion.
Depending on the damage involved and the damper type, most spend between $160 and $520. The average chimney damper replacement costs $360, with prices varying between $120 and $700 depending on the damper type and the damage involved.
Could be just that the damper is rusted, spray some WD40 and let it sit for a few minutes. Spray it liberally and then use some pliers or something to try to work it back and forth. That may get it unstuck but you still need to figure out where the handle is.
The first enemy is common to all wear items – time. At about 500,000 miles, silicone tends to harden. The harder the silicone, the less functional the damper. The second cause of failure is droppage.
If the device is stuck in one position or won't fully close and open, there could be an issue with the controls or mechanism. Sticking, opening and closing problems often arise from corrosion, rust and structural issues. A professional repair company can help restore proper function to your fire damper.
Put the damper into an open position and check the registers once again to see if the airflow starts. If the damper is closed and you are feeling low airflow, or none at all, it is most likely a bad damper. For the automatic control damper, turn your HVAC system on. Check for airflow in the registers.
It depends on the specific dampers you have and general usage conditions. However, the average butterfly damper should last about 20 years as long as you remember to clean and maintain your system. Electric dampers may only last about 15 years before the motor starts to experience problems.
If the damper still refuses to budge, use a rust- and corrosion-cutting oil such as WD-40 to help dissolve the rust and corrosion at the damper's hinges. When the damper is operational, work it back and forth while applying a high-temperature lubricant at all the joints and moving parts.
A motorized damper regulates the flow of air inside your HVAC system, which in turn controls the temperature in your home. If your damper isn't working, you'll need to replace the part. Expect to pay an average of $350 to replace a motorized HVAC damper, with a typical range of $250 to $450.
One of the earliest signs the damper needs attention is if it's difficult to open and close. This could indicate rust, corrosion, or warping caused by moisture or heat. These issues can prevent the damper from making a proper seal when closed, allowing heat to escape.
Dampers typically run over $200 (sometimes more). It should take less than an hour to replace it but the plumber will probably also charge you for his time tracking one down and picking it up so you could expect to pay an additional $150 to $200 in labor.
If you can repair it yourself, the cost may be minimal to the cost of replacement parts, depending on the type of damper and the extent of the repair needed. In general, homeowners can expect to pay between $150 and $500 for a standard chimney damper replacement.
If the damper is stuck in the closed position, using your fireplace would result in a room full of smoke and carbon monoxide, which is extremely dangerous. Your chimney damper should ALWAYS be open when burning a fire, no matter what!
Whether your fireplace is gas or wood-burning, if it was built with a pre-fabricated insert, then it almost certainly has a damper. And while older wood-burning fireplaces can function safely without a damper (gas fireplaces cannot), a chimney without a damper is just a gaping hole in the roof of your house.
The damper and flue are two different parts, but they are related and involved in the same function. The flue is the inside tunnel of your chimney that brings gases from your fireplace out of your home, while the damper closes or opens the access to the flue.
To reset a damper, each stainless-steel blade is repositioned by pushing back the latch under spring tension. Once all the blades have been pushed back, the latch springs out to secure them.
Damper Won't Close: This furthers downdraft problems and allows air to escape from your home. Damper Won't Open: Your fireplace becomes inoperable until this can be resolved. Broken Dampers: The damper plate is visibly cracked, broken, or has fallen into the firebox completely.
Damper Maintenance - General
Lightly lubricate with Moli-Spray Oil #3 applied to all brass fittings and any movable linkages, shafts or other moving parts. We find that this is the best lubricant for damper mechanisms. It is a molybdenum disulfide suspension in an extreme pressure oil carrier.
OPEN OR CLOSED? The damper should be kept closed when there is no fire or coals burning. Warm air from your home will not be lost up the chimney when the fireplace is not being used. Fully open the damper before your start a fire and keep it fully open until all embers and coals have burned out.
Before lighting a fire, you can tell if the damper is open by placing your hand into the fireplace. If you feel a draft coming down the chimney, it is a good indicator that the damper is open. If you don't feel any cold air coming down the chimney, it means that the damper is closed.
If the damper cracks while being rapidly heating and cooling, it will no longer work properly. Replacing a fireplace damper by yourself is possible, and you can save yourself some serious money by foregoing professional consultation.
Obstruction is one of the most common factors contributing to damper failure. Obstruction can be caused by something as minor as dust build-up or as significant as another trade installing its materials through damper openings.